Not to be overlooked or forgotten about, the temperature of your fish tank is one of the most important factors you need to consider when creating an underwater ecosystem that’s suitable to support life. Poorly maintained water temperatures can have a considerable effect on the health of your fish, plants and corals, as they all need specific conditions in which to thrive. Fish in particular are poikilothermic or “cold-blooded”, meaning their bodies don’t produce their own heat and instead match the temperature of their environments. This means that your fish are wholly dependent on the water in their tank being maintained at the right temperature. Fortunately, setting and maintaining temperature isn’t a difficult task once you know how, and our own fishkeeping experts here at Aquacadabra are here to help.
Whether you’re setting up your first tank, or are worried about the health of your fish and think water temperature might be to blame, join us as we cover the three main steps of achieving the right aquarium temperature; research, set up and maintenance. From figuring out what temperature your fish need to match their native environment, to getting the right equipment for heating and cooling, we can help you create the perfect temp for your tank.
What temperature your fish tank should be entirely depends on the fish (or plants or corals) you have in it. Everything in your tank, from temperature to salinity, should be specifically tailored to whatever is living in it. So, rather than asking ‘what is the right aquarium temperature?’, you should instead ask, ‘what temperature do my fish need?’.
In most cases, the type of fish you keep will either be ‘tropical’ or ‘coldwater’, with some fish comfortable in temperatures in the middle of these ranges called ‘temperate’. Tropical fish tanks are usually kept at temperatures between 24-27°C (75-80°F), with most tropical fish species such as bettas comfortable living in waters within this range. Cold water fish, like the ever-popular goldfish, need lower temperatures with the usual range of cold water tanks sitting between 15-24°C (60-75°F). Temperate fish have some crossover, with species like guppies and tetras happiest at room temperature between 18–23°C (64-73°F), which is standard for a temperate fish tank.
While you can get a good idea of the right water temperature for your aquarium based on whether or not it's coldwater, temperate or tropical, the best way to ensure the health of your fish is to base it on their specific species’ needs. After all, not all tropical fish can live in the full 24-27°C range and might need to be kept on the lower end of the scale, such as platy fish which like the lower-tropical temperatures of 24-25.5°C (75°-78°F).
To help you pick which fish to add to your tank, and how to keep them healthy, we’ve compiled a list of fifteen of the most popular fish and their preferred temperatures below. If the fish you had in mind isn’t included in our list, don’t worry, you can also ask our experts for personalised guidance.
Once you’ve done your research and found out what temperature your fish need to thrive, the next step is to set up your aquarium with the right heater or chiller (if they’re needed) to keep the water in the right range.
Before we go into how to maintain temperature, however, it's worth pointing out to the nervous fishkeepers among you that small changes in temperature are natural. Even in their native habitats, fish will be exposed to these fluctuations, which is why many experts even think they’re good for your fish, helping to boost their resilience in the same way light stresses and illnesses improve our own human immune systems. However, while out in nature rivers and seas have different micro-habitats such as in shaded caves and deeper water, the temperature of a tank is much more uniform, so big spikes and drops in temperature are harder for your fish to evade.
Overall, if you're a beginner and concerned about maintaining your tank at exactly the same temperature at all times, try not to worry too much - though we know that can be difficult advice to follow when it's your new fishy friends on the line! While there’s some debate on how much fluctuation fish can stand, the general rule to follow is to be careful to avoid drastic and rapid changes. With the right equipment (and some handy tips and tricks for beginners which we’ve included at the end of this blog) you’ll be the proud owner of a healthy, well-balanced tank in no time.
The Juwel Digital Thermometer 3.0 is ideal for fishkeepers who want to take regular tank readings at a glance, as the large display fits easily onto the top of your aquarium and can be easily seen from a distance. This model uses an external sensor too, making it suitable for both saltwater and freshwater tanks.
In our collection we have the full range of HeatUp Aquarium Heaters, which are available in wattages ranging from 25w up to 300w. Featuring a patented temperature control system, the HeatUp series allows you to precisely adjust the temperature of your aquarium, while the bi-metal sensor provides accurate readings to ensure a uniform view of your water can be measured at all times.
The D-D DC750 Aquarium Chiller is a powerful piece of equipment designed to lower the temperature of tanks holding coldwater species. The 750 wattage is powerful enough to drop the temperature of a 300L tank by 10°C, or by 5°C in a larger 600L tank. The chiller itself is easy to install and set up, and can be safely stored away in most cabinets.
Cooling fans, such as the JBL ProTemp Cooler x200 can be affixed to open-top tanks and lower the temperature of the water by increasing surface airflow and evaporating the warm water. While effects will differ from model to model and the power they have, the JBL ProTemp x200 is suitable for aquariums between 60-200L, and lowers temperatures by between 2-4°C.
While we would always advise getting the right equipment for your tank and investing in a trustworthy and accurate thermometer, there are other things you can do to help keep your aquarium water temperature as steady as possible. From picking species that need the same temperature ranges, to making small and frequent water changes to limit fluctuations, we’ve included our top tips below:
At Aquacadabra, our fish tank temperature collection has everything you need to keep your tank as cool or as warm as your fishy friends need to stay happy and healthy. Shop the range to find the right heater, chiller or thermometer, or get in touch with our friendly team of experts to get personalised advice.
]]>While there’s no one-solution-fits-all answer to this question, as this will ultimately depend on the layout of your home, access to power sources and space constraints you have to work with, there are a number of considerations that may influence your decision.
A correctly set-up aquarium is a true thing of beauty, and as such, owners should set up a tank in a location that makes it easy to view and reap the benefits of their thriving ecosystem. Placing your aquarium in plain sight, or in a location you frequent in the home, also comes with its own set of unique advantages, as by having an unrestricted view to the beauty of your tank, fishkeepers hold the ability to quickly identify any signs of ecosystem issues. Whether it’s a poorly fish, unresponsive filter or a growing algae concern, the sooner you’re able to spot the problem, the sooner you can take the necessary action to keep your aquatic friends happy and healthy.
While it pays to place your fish tank in a space you spend the majority of your time in, fishkeepers should also take into consideration the level of footfall, noise and general room temperature of the space. For example, if you’re considering placing your tank in a living room, fishkeepers should be mindful of their radiator temperature, the noise of external factors such as speakers, TV or electronic devices, and whether or not this room is the main intersection of the home for visitors, as areas of high traffic can place unnecessary stress on your aquatic friends. As a general guide, below, we’ve listed the top environmental stresses to avoid when it comes to where best to place a fish tank:
Noise
Water transmits sounds very well, and your aquatic life can be particularly sensitive to strong vibrations, as these vibrations travel straight through aquarium water and can disrupt the ecosystem. While levels of disruption are often debated between fishkeepers, as an aquarium filter can make just as much noise as a regular living room speaker, it still pays to be mindful of the sound you expose your aquatic life to.
Ensure primary sources of noise and vibrations are kept to a minimum, eg: lower the bass levels on your sound systems and keep TV volume to a minimum. We would also recommend not placing your tank close to areas of high footfall within the home, such as by the front door or close to a walkway, as door slamming, running up the stairs or heavy footsteps can trigger high vibrations and disturb the aquatic life in your tank.
Light
If you’re an experienced fishkeeper, you’ll likely already know that placing your tank in direct, natural light can encourage algae to grow. A tank that sits in direct sunlight will promote fast algae growth, while also potentially contributing to the rising temperature of your fish tank. Because of this, conservatories are not recommended as a suitable place to keep your fish tank, as 15+ hours of direct sunlight in summer time will soon create a rapid algae issue and pose major health risks for your fish. As well as creating unnecessary risks through summer, the very nature of conservatories means they can also become extremely cold in winter time, and as such, year round, a conservatory is not the ideal environment to hold any fish tank.
If you have no option but to place your fish tank near a window, or your preferred fish tank spot has direct natural lighting, there are a number of ways around this. Instead, we would simply recommend installing adjustable blinds, or closing the curtains during the day to block direct sunlight. Fishkeepers can also go one step further and install background material covered with thin insulation board or cardboard on the back of the tank to prevent algae buildup or overheating from direct sunlight.
Heat
The overall temperature of your tank is one of the most important factors when it comes to deciding on the best place to hold a fish tank. While we’ve explained in detail in our how to heat your aquarium and how to cool your aquarium blogs, it’s important that your chosen aquarium placement has no heat sources that could raise or cool the water temperature above the recommended guidelines. When it comes to heat, avoid placing your aquarium near a fireplace, radiator, or in rooms that are considered ‘sun traps’, as these can quickly cause aquarium temperatures to rise which reduces levels of oxygen, increases stress and can seriously impact your livestock.
If you have no option but to place your tank near a radiator, ensure that the specific radiator is turned off to help regulate your fish tank's overall temperature.
While aquariums overheating can pose a bigger risk to your aquarium’s livestock and can cause more complex issues than cold temperatures, It also pays to be mindful of cold spots, as this can still lead to a great deal of stress for your aquatic friends.
If you are considering placing your aquarium in a cooler area of the home, we would recommend either investing in a traditional aquarium heater, or a titanium heater, to offer greater control on your fish tanks temp levels.
Yes. It’s easy to forget that the sheer volume of water your aquarium will likely hold is going to be incredibly heavy.
As one gallon of water weighs about 8 pounds on average, this means that even a small, 10-gallon fish tank is still going to be heavy just on sheer mass alone - and that’s without taking into account the weight of the tank itself, along with fish, filters, heaters and additional accessories. This is why the majority of our large aquariums come with strong aquarium cabinets and stands, that are built purposely to withstand such weight. Because of this, we would recommend either investing in a purpose-built stand, or consider investing in a strong unit that will hold your fish tank’s weight comfortably. This is definitely an overlooked expense, but if a flimsy table or stand breaks, the cost of replacing your livestock and the water damage it’ll likely present if your cabinet breaks will be a lot more expensive in the long run.
To summarise the above, fish keepers should avoid areas with heavy footfall, or places in the home that have constant access to direct sunlight, such as conservatories, as constant access to heat, cold or constant movement and noise can each affect the livelihood of your ecosystem.
As a recommended guide on where best to place your fish tank, at Aquacadabra, we would suggest finding a spot where your aquarium becomes a focal point, but isn’t in the way of any essentials, such as light switches, radiator valves, or ventilation systems. It also pays to ensure that your tank is situated close to, but not directly over, any power sockets, as due to the nature of fish tanks, you’ll likely need a lot of accessible power outlets to keep all systems plugged in and running 24/7. Cables in use should also have a drip loop (a drip loop simply allows the cord to drop down below your outlet before rising back up to it), where any potential water droplets will gather, instead of running into sockets and posing a greater safety risk.
Absolutely. Fish are incredibly sensitive to noise and vibrations, so if you’ve got a loud TV, or your ideal location backs onto a set of stairs or sits close to a door, consider moving to a quieter area, where the tank is still in full view.
A tropical fish tank makes a great addition to any home. If you have often found yourself curious about the colourful fish in your local pet store, or mesmerised by a friend’s impressive aquarium, a tropical fish tank might be the one for you. Although gazing at the vibrantly coloured fish is relaxing, this is a reward that needs to be earned as these beautiful creatures are not considered to be the easiest fish to keep. Tropical fish require a specific ecosystem in order to thrive, meaning that even the smallest changes to their living environment can cause issues. Therefore, these delicate fish will require a fair amount of maintenance and care.
If you’ve been curious about keeping tropical fish, but are unsure about what’s involved, we’ve put together a comprehensive guide on how to look after tropical fish to support you in your new endeavour. Keep reading to discover exactly what is involved in keeping tropical fish, from setting up the tank to picking the right decorations and ensuring proper maintenance - it’s time to begin your tropical fish journey.
New fish keepers tend to shy away from the idea of a tropical aquarium as they believe it will be too much of a challenge. However, in reality, tropical fish are not difficult to look after and, in some cases, they can be easier to care for than goldfish. It’s important to note that despite this, tropical fish can often be more sensitive than other fish types, meaning that even the smallest environmental change such as lighting, heating or changes to filtration can cause distress to your fish. If you’re looking to take on the challenge yourself, all you need is the knowhow, correct supplies, and a dedicated attitude.
Maintaining a tropical fish tank may seem like a daunting task, however, once you’re aware of the steps involved to ensure a healthy aquarium, maintenance will become an easy and familiar task you can do without much effort. If you’re deciding to start keeping tropical fish it’s important to be meticulous about how you care for them, ensuring they always have a carefully maintained aquarium to live a long, happy life in. The key steps you must take to maintain a healthy tropical fish environment are:
It’s important that when doing a more thorough tank clean not to overdo it. We suggest sticking to a few simple cleaning tasks including:
If you’re a beginner to fishkeeping, there is a lot to learn about caring for tropical fish, therefore picking fish that are not only beautiful to look at but easy to care for is important. If you’re just starting, you will want to choose tropical fish that will give you the best chance of success with your home aquarium.
The most important tip to remember when it comes to choosing an assortment of tropical fish is that big fish eat little fish, so be aware of the sizes of fish you are mixing in the same tank. Below we have listed a couple of the easiest tropical fish to care for that can live together peacefully to get you started:
If you’re worried about overcrowding your tropical fish tank with too many schooling fish, head over to our ‘How many fish should you put in a fish tank?’ blog to learn how to calculate this for yourself.
If this is your first time caring for tropical fish, there are many things you must consider before buying the fish you want. Even if you are an experienced fishkeeper of other species, caring for tropical species is a whole different kettle of fish. As discussed above, there are many factors to take into account and research to do on tropical fish before pursuing this new endeavour. Below, we have listed some of the main things you must know before buying your new tropical fish friends.
The key to successful fishkeeping is ensuring you have the correct fish tank for the species of fish you purchase. For tropical fish in particular, it’s always best to get the largest tank you can so that your fish have plenty of space to swim around in. Here at Aquacadabra, we have a wide range of tropical fish tanks, in varying sizes to suit your needs. In addition to your tank, you will also need a good quality heater and thermometer, a tank light, a water filter and fish gravel or sand. These core tank accessories will help to replicate the perfect natural environment of tropical fish, helping to give them the happiest and healthiest life possible.
From this point, you can begin adding any aquarium decorations you like to make the tank more aesthetically pleasing for both you and your fish. Whether you opt for plastic plants, live aquarium plants, decorative backgrounds or aquarium rooms, keep in mind that all fish tank accessories should be made specifically for a tropical fish tank to ensure that they do not contain any dangerous toxins or cause harm to your fish. Browse through our full collection of aquarium accessories for inspiration on how to decorate your new tropical aquarium.
The first thing you should consider is where in your home you are going to keep your tropical fish tank as the location plays a big role in protecting the health of your fish. We suggest keeping the tank away from televisions or anywhere with loud noises as the vibrations from loud sounds can cause your fish stress.
We would also recommend keeping your tank away from any sources of extreme hot or cold temperatures, such as next to a radiator or near a draughty door. Any fluctuations in water temperature can suppress your fish’s immune system, making them more susceptible to diseases, therefore placing your tank in an area with a consistent, controlled temperature is ideal. In addition to this, it’s also important to keep your tropical tank away from areas of direct sunlight as too much natural light can cause a buildup of algae.
As mentioned above, the temperature of the water in your tropical tank is something that should be at the top of your list of concerns. For fish to survive and thrive in their environment, keeping the temperature exactly right is vital. The exact water temperature will vary depending on which type of tropical species you keep, however, generally speaking, the ideal temperature of tropical fish tanks should be around 25 degrees Celsius. Make sure when buying your tropical fish you research what temperature is ideal for that species.
The water temperature should be checked daily to see if there have been any changes. If you do notice a change, take a look at the tank heater to ensure it is still working properly - if your heater malfunctions your fish may be at risk of disease or death, so it’s a really important thing to keep an eye on.
Some tropical fish tank heaters emit a warning alarm if the temperature of the water goes beyond a predefined range. These specific tank heaters are worth investing in, especially as a beginner, as they can reassure you and alert you to any issues. Browse through our range of aquarium heaters and water thermometers to find the right one for your new tank.
The diet you choose to feed your tropical fish will not only have an impact on their health but also on the quality of their tank environment. Therefore ensuring you feed your tropical fish the right diet at the right times is vital to successful fishkeeping. The species of tropical fish you have will determine what food they will like, for example, some tropical fish prefer to eat pellets, whereas others are better off with flakes.
Make sure to feed your fish at the same time every day so that they get used to the feeding routine - we recommend feeding 2-3 times per day. Overfeeding your fish can be one of the biggest sources of waste in your tank, which will decompose and lead to a phosphate imbalance in the water. The easiest way to make sure you’re feeding your fish the right amount is to regularly check your tank to see if there is any food left floating on the surface or at the bottom of the tank after feeding. Ideally, food should all be eaten quickly (within around two minutes) and nothing should be left over.
Just like any other type of fish, ensuring you keep your tropical fish tank clean is important to keep your fish healthy. Ideally, you should fully clean your tank once per month and clean any algae buildup on the walls of the tank once per week. To keep your tank immaculate you will also need to clean the water filter, gravel and any ornaments inside of the tank. Our full guide on how to clean a fish tank will help make sure you’re taking the right steps and using the best equipment when tackling this task as a beginner.
Although it may be tempting to fill your tank with the prettiest fish you see, it’s important to research which species of tropical fish work well together, as certain species cannot be kept in the same tank. Some types of fish just don’t gel well, and you don’t want to run the risk of your fish attacking or eating each other. Remember to do your research to find out which types of fish will get along the best before buying and ask an expert if you’re unsure.
When it comes to setting up your tropical fish tank, there are many components you need to purchase in order to have a successful tropical aquarium. Obviously, the most important is the fish tank itself. Since tropical fish are beautiful and interesting creatures to watch, you will want to purchase a tank that will help highlight your fish as the main centrepiece of your room. As mentioned earlier, most tropical fish live best in schools of at least six, therefore, if you’re purchasing multiple species of tropical fish, you’re going to need to purchase a tank big enough to let your fish live comfortably.
Juwel Primo 70 White Aquarium (from £205) and Juwel Lido 200 LED Tropical Aquarium & Cabinet (from £629)
The Juwel Primo 70 Aquarium is a brilliant starter aquarium for beginners to fishkeeping. Available on its own or with a matching stand, the Juwel Primo 70 comes fitted with an efficient Bioflow One filter and modern Novolux LED lighting, helping you enter into the fishkeeping world at the highest technical level. Featuring a safety base frame to help you set up your aquarium easily with no need for extra support, this fish tank is made from the highest quality materials and perfectly coordinated technology to ensure maximum safety. This tank can hold up to 70 litres of water and is great to get you started on your tropical fishkeeping journey.
The Juwel Lido 200 LED Tropical Aquarium is designed for those looking for an aesthetically pleasing fish tank that can easily integrate into your home. Built into a sleek cabinet, this tank is great for those with minimal space. Featuring a built-in Bioflow 3.0 water filtration system, a Multilux LED 70 lighting unit and a 200 Watt adjustable heater that work together to create the ideal environment for tropical fish. Designed to hold up to 200 litres of water, this tropical fish tank is perfect for experienced fishkeepers or those wanting a large feature aquarium.
Oase BioPlus (from £34.29) and Fluval Aqua Plus Water Conditioner (from £6.99)
Once you have your chosen tank, the next step is to pick a water filter. Some aquariums come with integrated filters, however, if you want to upgrade or supplement your filter system there are many options for filters suitable for tropical tanks. The Oase BioPlus filter is an easy-to-use filtration system that features a clip-slotted filter media that helps to make cleaning easier, preventing the aquarium from being disturbed. This quiet and energy-efficient pump consumes less power and features a high volume of filter foams to ensure effective mechanical and biological filtration, helping to remove any cloudiness and ensure crystal-clear water.
In addition to a good quality water filtration system, your tropical aquarium will also need a high-quality water conditioner to make the water safe for fish. Pure tap water is unsafe for fish as it contains high levels of chlorine and other undesirable chemicals. Water conditioners such as the Fluval Aqua Plus works by neutralising chlorine, chloramine and metals in water to make it suitable for your tropical aquarium. Formulated with pure herbal extracts, this conditioner also helps to visibly reduce stress in fish that may be caused by transportation, handling and acclimatisation.
Fluval Plant 3.0 LED Lighting 32w with Bluetooth 24-34" £174.99 and Fluval T-Series Aquarium Heaters (from £25.69)
The final step to setting up your tropical fish tank is to add good quality lighting and heaters. Lighting your tropical fish tank well will help to improve the overall well-being of your fish by providing them with energy and creating more oxygen through photosynthesising plants, as well as helping any plants and corals to grow. Having the correct lighting in your tropical fish tank can also be beneficial for providing your fish with a natural day and night cycle that without, may cause your fish stress.
The Fluval Plant 3.0 is a new and smart way to promote a healthy environment for your tropical fish. With fully programmable sunrise-to-night settings, this LED tank light can be controlled through the FluvalSmart App for a customizable 24-hour light cycle that allows you to program gradual settings to mimic the natural cycle of the sun and moon, to create a realistic environment for your fish. Unlike other LEDs on the market, the Fluval can be safely mounted directly above the surface of the water to offer greater light penetration and efficiency. This tropical aquarium light also has a higher operating temperature to help the lights remain cool, in turn, helping to protect against water intrusion and humidity.
As previously mentioned, keeping the temperature of the water in your tropical aquarium at the right level is extremely important. With the Fluval T-Series Aquarium Heater, you can ensure your beautiful fish are kept happy and healthy. This heater is fully submersible and combines electronic accuracy, reliable monitoring and multiple safety features to help maintain your desired water temperature easily. Available in a variety of options to suit your specific tank size, this high-quality heater will ensure that you keep your tropical fish at the perfect temperature.
Although caring for tropical fish can be an overwhelming task, by following our tips and advice, you’re one step closer to becoming an experienced fishkeeper. To get started, browse through our full collection of tropical fish aquariums, water filters and more or get in touch with one of our fish experts here at Aquacadabra for further advice.
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While a pond can be a beautiful feature of any property, taking care of a pond is no easy feat. No matter the size, keeping your pond clear, healthy and clean can be a daunting task, especially if you’re not sure where to begin. From choosing the right filter, to learning what plants can help keep the water healthy, there are many aspects of learning how to clean pond water. Read on to find out how to clear pond water and create a naturally thriving ecosystem, as well as discover the best ways to clean pond water with the help of us here at Aquacadabra.
The first question you may be asking is ‘how often should you clean your pond water?’. And the answer is that it can vary, and is particularly dependent on the size and location. Smaller ponds may require more frequent cleaning, as will ponds kept in areas that see excess debris falling onto the surface, as this will need to be cleared often to ensure your aquatic life remains healthy. However, the general consensus is that pond water should be cleaned on average once or twice per year.
The key to keeping your pond water clean and the pond life healthy is to check on it regularly. In most cases, you will be able to tell from the colour of the water whether your pond is in good condition or not. However, if you’re wanting more information on the quality of your pond water there are water test kits available that can help you determine the quality, pH and purity of your pond water.
After putting a lot of time, energy and money into creating the perfect pond, the last thing you want is to see murky water. However, there are many ways you can help your pond to maintain clear water naturally without the use of any harsh chemicals that may affect the ecosystems thriving in the pond.
One of the easiest ways to ensure your pond water is kept clear is to add beneficial bacteria to it. This beneficial bacteria works by breaking down nutrients in the pond and starving out any algae that may be overgrown. Each beneficial bacteria method works differently, you can choose a specialised product such as the Cloverleaf Absolute Pearls (£13.60) or Evolution Aqua Pure Pond Balls (£12.45) detailed below, or for a more simple option, adding a layer of rocks to the bottom of your pond can also help to promote the growth of beneficial bacteria.
These Cloverleaf Absolute Pearls are a natural product designed to help maintain a healthy pond environment. The pearls contain a combination of microscopic nitrifying bacteria and bio-active enzymes that help to break down any harmful levels of ammonia and nitrite found within ponds. These fast-acting enzymes get rid of any dead algae, sludge and uneaten food left in the water to prevent it from building up in your pond and filter system, causing murky water. Suitable for all ponds including koi and fish ponds, Cloverleaf Absolute Pearls will help you achieve that crystal clear pond water you want without risking the safety of your aquatic life.
Similar to this, the Evolution Aqua Pure Pond Balls are crammed full of live bacteria in a biodegradable ball that, once placed into the pond, slowly releases good bacteria when needed the most. With over 8 billion bacteria per litre, these Evolution Pond Balls are guaranteed to keep your pond looking crystal clear. Add these balls either directly into your pond or into your filter, once per month to help break down organic waste and balance the ammonia/nitrate cycle for a beautiful, healthy pond.
Another way to ensure your pond water is kept clear naturally is to use the right aquatic plants. The use of plants in ponds is highly beneficial to the natural ecosystems of the pond as they help to remove excess nutrients from the water and prevent unwanted contaminants from entering the water, as well as reducing the light levels of the pond to hinder the overgrowth of unwanted algae. There are a wide variety of beautiful aquatic plants that you add to your pond, depending on the size, location and temperature of your pond. While you’re deciding what plants are best for you, browse through our full collection of pond planting supplies, or read our full Guide to Aquarium Plants to help you along the way.
Finally, an easy way to help keep your pond water clear naturally is to simply not add too many fish. Although fascinating to look at, having too many fish in one pond results in too much fish waste and in turn causes unclean, murky water. How many fish you should have in your pond is not only dependent on the size of your pond but also how well your pond’s ecosystem can handle the amount of waste - if you have a larger biofilter then your pond should be able to handle a higher amount of waste.
Some of the most common signs of fish overpopulation in your pond are:
By removing fish from your pond or investing in a larger filtration system, you can help to keep your pond cleaner and free from unwanted bacteria.
Cleaning a pond without draining is the least disruptive method when it comes to maintaining a healthy pond, as it allows the majority of the good bacteria to continue providing biological filtration during and after the worst of the waste is removed. In order to clean a pond properly, fully draining all of the water out of it should be considered only as a last resort. There is a common misconception that to effectively clean a pond you must first remove the old water, however this is not necessary. Pond water that has been there for a long time, although you may think is “bad quality” water, actually contains a lot of good bacteria and microorganisms which are vital to keeping the natural ecosystem of the pond balanced.
One of the easiest ways to ensure a clean pond without draining the water is by using a product such as, Aquacadabra Vanquish Sludge (£7.99) or Bermuda Sludge Bomb (£10.95). These products are highly effective at removing unwanted sludge and waste from your pond to help keep it clear and healthy. The Vanquish Sludge from Aquacadabra contains a concentrated amount of beneficial organisms which work to dispose of fish waste, decrease sedimentation, improve the performance of biological filters and consume any dangerous levels of nitrate or ammonia, all without you having to drain your pond.
The Sludge Bomb from Bermuda also helps to digest sludge both in your pond and surrounding water features. Safe for any fish or wildlife living in your pond, this Sludge Bomb is a single use product that effectively eradicates the presence of toxins, reducing sludge and helping to minimise organic waste build up, for a clean and clear pond without the hassle of draining.
By fully removing the entirety of old pond water, you put your pond at risk of removing beneficial bacteria. Helpful bacteria that live in mature pond water play a large role in breaking down harmful fish waste and help to make the water safe for aquatic life. Therefore, we highly encourage you to retain as much of the mature pond water as possible during cleaning. Below we will outline a few of the key steps to maintaining the good bacteria and natural biological filtration of your pond water without draining it, whilst also effectively cleaning it.
Clean your pond in Spring or Autumn. Spring is when the water temperature starts to rise and your fish become more active in the pond, therefore choosing to give your pond a nice spring clean at this time will give your fish a nice fresh start for the new season. During mid-late autumn is also a great time to give your pond a more intensive deep clean. This is around the time most of the leaves have fallen off the trees which can then be netted away, and the young amphibians that were born earlier in the year are now adults that can safely vacate the pond during cleaning.
Remove all debris. One of the most important steps to cleaning pond water is to remove any floating debris, using a pond net or, if the pond is in an area where debris may fall in frequently, using a pond vacuum. A good quality pond vac is a long-term investment and a helpful tool when collecting debris on an ongoing basis to catch any debris you may miss and help to prevent the build-up of sludge on the bottom of the pond. Here at Aquacadabra, we have a wide range of pond vacuums and pond nets that can help streamline your pond water cleaning process.
Dechlorinate tap water. If you choose to partially drain your pond for cleaning, it’s important to note that filling it up with tap water without first using a dechlorinator can cause disturbance to the natural ecosystem of the pond. Chlorine is naturally found in tap water, making it safe for humans to drink but toxic to aquatic life. Therefore we recommend dechlorinating your tap water before using it to top up your pond or, alternatively, collect rainwater in a water butt and use that instead. There are a variety of quality dechlorinators available to purchase here at Aquacadabra.
Use a pond filter. Pond filters work by clearing out unwanted toxins and introducing oxygen into the water in order to keep it clean, clear and free from algae. There are two main elements to an effective pond filter - a mechanical filter and a biological filter, a combination of both is the most effective way to keep your pond water clean without draining it. A mechanical filter removes any physical contaminants that you may have missed with a pond net and a biological filter helps break down any harmful waste and decreases any toxic levels of nitrate or ammonia that can be found in the water. There are three main types of pond filters that can be used - gravity, UV and pressure filtration.
The Fish Mate Bio Filter is a 3-stage mechanical and biological gravity filtration system used as an effective way to give you better water clarity and a healthy pond environment. Easy to use and designed to be integrated into a wide range of pond filters such as UV filters for increased effectiveness, this gravity filter is a great choice for quick and simple pond maintenance.
The EasyClear 3000 is a fully integrated in-pond filter that promotes clear and healthy pond water. This efficient, integrated pump is easy to install, requires no tools and is suitable for ponds up to 3000 litres. Featuring foam filters to ensure crystal clear water and Kaldnes biomedia to keep your pond plants and fish healthy, with 5 watts of UVC to help eliminate green water. This UV pond filter also doubles as a fun water feature, with the choice of either a fountain or waterfall.
The Hozelock Bioforce Revolution 6000 is an easy clean, 3-step filter system that helps to maintain clear and healthy pond water. Suitable for ponds up to 6000 litres, this pond filter includes a high-power 18w UV clarifier, with both biological and mechanical filtration to eliminate green water and maintain beneficial bacteria. Using pressurised filtration to prevent clogging and flow loss, the unique Cypricube foam filters effectively remove waste and promote clear, clean water.
Disruption to your pond’s natural ecosystem can tint your beautiful pond water an unsightly green or brown colour. However, there’s no need to worry as there are many ways in which you can clear murky pond water naturally and with the help of a few handy tools.
Whether you wish to rid your pond of murky water naturally, manually or with the help of some effective pond filters and vacs, below we will outline some simple steps you can take to keep your pond water crystal clear.
Keeping your pond water clean and the ecosystem within thriving is not as difficult as it may seem. Simply follow our advice and tips above to ensure your pond is kept in the best condition possible, so you can sit back, relax and enjoy the view of your crystal clear pond.
If you’re looking for further ways to keep your pond in the best condition possible, browse through our full collection of pond supplies to find out more. Alternatively, if you have any questions or need advice on maintaining your pond, get in touch with our fish experts here at Aquacadabra today.
]]>Before we get started, make sure that you unplug all of your equipment including your filter and any heaters, as they’re not designed to run without water and this could cause damage to the equipment. Additionally, you should make sure you’ve washed your hands and arms up to your elbows. This is to keep any bad bacteria out of the tank when completing just a part water change.
Cleaning the aquarium glass first to remove any algae overgrowth will make the job easier, as you’ll be able to dislodge the algae and vacuum up the debris when it comes to cleaning the substrate layer later on.
To clean the glass, or acrylic, you’ll need a specific fish tank glass cleaner such as a non-abrasive algae cleaning pad, and a scraper. General household cleaning wares aren’t appropriate for fish tanks as they can leave residual chemicals in the tank which can harm your fish, and they can leave scratches on your tank. We recommend using the Algae Scraper Pad Deluxe to cover the larger surface areas of the tank, and using the Fluval Razor 2-in-1 Magnet cleaner to remove any stubborn algae and to clean any corners or hard to reach areas. The Tunze Floating Magnet Cleaners are ideal for daily maintenance of algae on the glass, as they are designed to suit several glass thicknesses, and the plastic blades are suitable for acrylic tanks. Additionally, the ergonomic design prevents sand or gravel getting stuck between the magnets to reduce the chance of scratches occurring during cleaning.
Algae Scraper Pad Deluxe & Fluval Razor 2-in-1 Magnets
You don’t need to remove your fish during cleaning, chasing them around to catch them may actually cause them to be more stressed. Gently clean around your fish to remove excess algae.
It is best to remove any fish tank ornaments and fake plants to ensure thorough cleaning, and leave them out of the tank until cleaning is completed. This will stop any debris settling on them when it is time to clean the substrate layer. Remove each decoration and clean using only hot water and a designated toothbrush or scraper to scrub off the algae. There are also solutions specifically designed for cleaning plastic plants and ornaments to restore their visual appeal. The Interpet Ornament Cleaner is an excellent choice. Alternatively if you don’t have any cleaner to hand and if the algae is extremely stubborn, you can leave the decorations to soak in a hot water and 10% bleach solution. Leave them to soak for no more than 10 minutes, and rinse thoroughly under running water before leaving to dry completely to eliminate any residual chlorine. To ensure optimal safety, you can also use a dechlorinator. After you’ve rinsed the product, leave it to soak in a dechlorinating solution for 15 minutes.
Interpet Ornament Cleaner & Fluval AquaPlus Dechlorinator
If you have chosen to have live plants in your aquarium, they may also need to be cleaned. You should leave them in the tank and gently rub off any debris or algae, so as not to disturb them or cause damage. However, if this doesn’t work you can cut off the old and infested leaves without removing them from the tank. It is not advised to remove your plants because this will mix the substrate, disturbing the balance and stability of the ecosystem in the aquarium. In turn, this can lead to a release of excess organic compounds and ammonia which will cause harm to your tank.
It is also important to note that using a bleach solution is only recommended in extreme cases of algal overgrowth, and you should never use soaps or detergents when cleaning your plants and ornaments, as it can be hard to remove chemical residue which can be lethal to your fish.
Now that you’ve removed all of your decorations, filters, and heating systems, any debris should have settled at the substrate layer and you should have a clear view of your fish. You can leave the fish in the tank whilst you clean the gravel, but you need to ensure that you don’t remove more than 50% of the water at a time. Don’t worry, this step is not as difficult as it may sound, as long as you’re using a fish tank gravel cleaner.
We would recommend using the Fluval ProVac gravel cleaner to easily get a thorough clean. Despite its name, the gravel cleaner can also be used to clean aquarium sand, though it is a little trickier due to its fineness. Gravel cleaners pick up the gravel and sand through a wide pipe and tumble it to dislodge dirt and debris which is then sucked up through a thin tube, allowing the cleaned gravel to be deposited back into the tank. With sand, you may need to hover slightly above the sand to allow it to be picked up and cleaned without it being filtered out into the waste water bucket. Just in case too much does get filtered out, make sure you have some back up sand to replenish the substrate layer.
Of course, you should also be mindful of small fish, most fish will swim away from the gravel cleaner, but you should pay extra attention to make sure that they don’t get caught in the mechanism! Keep the wastewater in a dedicated bucket, as you can use it to clean your filter media.
Fluval ProVac Fish Tank Gravel Cleaner
One of the trickiest parts of cleaning your fish tank is ensuring the good bacteria colonies aren’t eliminated, as your fish tank will need these colonies to thrive. Beginner fish tank owners are often misled by natural tendencies to make sure every component has been thoroughly cleaned, thinking that this will be most beneficial to aquatic health. However, this simply isn’t the case. Excessive cleaning of the glass, gravel, and ornaments can lead to complete elimination of the bacteria needed to keep a healthy ecosystem within your tank.
A filter is a good way to keep good bacteria present as it houses a lot of these beneficial bacterial colonies whilst also filtering out harmful waste, and therefore it shouldn’t be replaced when cleaning. Changing a filter when cleaning can cause ammonia to spike as there isn’t enough bacteria to eliminate this toxicity.
Some fish tank owners actually prefer to clean the filter two weeks after cleaning the rest of the tank. Although if you have a lot of algae overgrowth you may wish to undertake a small amount of filter cleaning during the cleaning process. In most cases, filter media can be cleaned and reused for about 3-6 months before needing to be replaced, you will need to clean it at least once per month, but preferably it should be done fortnightly.
To clean your filter media, remove it and gently squeeze the excess water out, and you can also swish it around in the wastewater you previously collected when cleaning the gravel. You can use a small brush to clean the filter housing and elements, removing algal growth. This way you can reintroduce the good bacteria to your tank, whilst still ensuring a good standard of cleanliness.
Now it is time to replace the depleted water in the tank. You will need a dedicated bucket or jug for this, one that hasn’t been used to house any other chemicals or cleaning equipment. Your water will need treating before placing it into the tank, and the treatment solution will depend on the type of fish you have. Firstly, you should make sure that the temperature is correct, and closely matches the temperature of the tank.
Secondly, you’ll need some dechlorinator or water conditioner such as Seachem Prime as this is essential for removing toxins and heavy metals found in tap water. Place it into the bucket and allow it to rest for a few minutes before introducing it to the tank. You may also need to use other water cleaners, bacteria cultures, or additives, depending on the type of fish you have, so be sure to check the needs of your fish according to their type (tropical, freshwater, etc). Bacteria boosters such as Fluval Cycle add nitrifying bacteria to the filtration system instantly, allowing this essential bacteria to grow within days rather than weeks. Whilst you’re waiting for the water to be primed, you can start to place your decorations back into the tank, but they may need readjusting once you add the new water.
Aquasafe Dechlorinator & Fluval Cycle
It’s now time to add your filtration, heating systems, and other systems back into the tank and turn them on. Make sure you’ve cleaned tubes, lights, and anywhere else where algae might grow, this will help to stop any clogs and sludge from forming within the mechanisms. Your tank may be looking a little bit cloudy at this point even after all that cleaning, but the filter will soon take care of this particulate clouding after an hour or so.
Finally, you’re almost done. You can now clean the exterior of the glass to remove any marks, smudges, and dust. Simply use a damp microfiber cloth to get rid of any marks, there’s no special fish tank glass cleaner required. Although we would recommend avoiding any standard household glass cleaners, if you have very stubborn stains you could use a vinegar solution to help clean the exterior.
Keeping a perfectly balanced and thriving ecosystem goes beyond supplying food to its inhabitants and cleaning the tank. You can ensure that your aquatic residents have everything they need to thrive with a range of supplies available at Aquacadabra, including water testing kits, treatments, and cleaning accessories.
Each type of tank will be different, and owning an aquarium is always a learning curve, especially for inexperienced fish owners. If you’re unsure of what you need or would like a little more guidance, we welcome customers to contact us for advice on keeping your fish healthy.
]]>When it comes to the ongoing maintenance of an aquarium, there are many challenges that every dedicated fishkeeper must face in order to keep their tank as clean and healthy as possible. It’s only with continuous care that a tank can thrive, and one such issue that you’re likely to face is the management of algae. Fast growing, stubborn and hard to remove, keeping algae under control is a common trial for beginners and experienced fishkeepers alike, but it doesn’t need to be a difficult one.
In this blog, our experts will detail all you need to know about managing algae, including what aquarium algae is, why too much of it can be dangerous, and the best ways to keep it from overwhelming your underwater ecosystem. Here to help you keep your aquarium clean and clear, we’ll also provide you with a list of the best algae-eating fish to add to your tropical aquarium so that you and your tank inhabitants can work together to keep your water algae-free.
Before we get into the best ways of removing algae from a fish tank, and the most effective types of algae-eating fish, we should first cover what this plant-like pest is and why it’s growing in your aquarium.
First and foremost, the growth of algae in fish tanks is caused by environmental imbalances. Namely, high levels of phosphorus, organics and nitrates are the key elements to keep an eye on, especially when combined with an excess amount of light, as these are the conditions that algae needs to thrive.
Algae is also a ‘protist’, a type of living organism that reproduces asexually, so its growth can spiral out of control incredibly quickly. Fortunately, there are plenty of techniques for keeping algae growth to a minimum, and it’s certainly not all bad news - in fact, there are a few benefits to having a well-managed amount of algae in your aquarium.
When kept to a minimum, yes - having some algae can be good for a fish tank. It’s only the overgrowth of algae that threatens the happy balance of a tank. Some benefits of algae include:
Aesthetics
While not a look that every fishkeeper will go for, having a little algae growth can bring a natural, almost peaceful appearance to your tank. After all, algae is completely natural and is found in seas, lakes and ponds around the world, so having some algae climbing across rocks and decorations can create a striking appearance.
Source of Vitamin A
A tasty snack for some types of fish and invertebrates, if you have algae in your tank it's likely that its inhabitants will happily graze on the surface. This is particularly good as algae is a natural source of carotene, an important vitamin which helps with the production of vitamin A. Vitamin A, in turn, helps to keep fish looking bright, shiny and vibrant.
Natural Filtration
Some types of fish tank algae, such as brown algae and green hair algae, offer a unique benefit to fish tanks - namely they can assist with the natural filtration process. Helping to reduce the level of nitrates and other harmful toxins often found in fish tanks, these algae types can actually work to create a safer environment for your fish.
Though not as evil as some fishkeepers may fear, algae can pose a threat to your fish and plant life when left to grow out of control. The main damage that an algae overgrowth can inflict on your tank environment is a lack of oxygen. A key requirement of continued growth, algae will absorb as much oxygen as it can from its environment, starving your fish of it and risking their health. This isn’t a problem when there’s only a small amount of algae, as there’s a limit to how much oxygen it can absorb, but when left to grow to excessive levels this threat starts to appear.
Not a one-time fix by any means, getting rid of aquarium algae is more a case of repeated effort and treatments to keep levels at a minimum than saying goodbye to it forever. Fortunately, there are some easy methods you can try, many of which can be integrated with your usual cleaning schedule for an easy, stress-free routine you can stick to.
To help you find the best method for you, we’ve detailed our favourite approaches to managing algae below, including water treatments, cleaning suggestions (with recommendations of the best tools for the job), preventative steps to slow growth, and the best algae-eating fish for tropical aquariums.
As algae overgrowth is caused by an imbalance in a tank’s delicate ecosystem, one of the best steps you can take to reduce its growth in the long run is to make efforts to re-balance the elements they need to grow. This isn’t a perfect science, and even the most experienced enthusiasts will struggle to get the balance between light, oxygen, phosphates, nitrates and organics exactly right, but there are still some easy changes that will help to reduce algae growth.
If you’ve adopted the various steps of method one into your regular aquarium care routine, you’ll hopefully have seen a reduction in the growth speed of algae. Another way to take this further is to manually remove unwanted algae. This allows you to see instant results and gives you a clean start to try and keep on top of.
If you’re removing algae from your fish tank using this manual method, there are a few things you’ll want to add to your cleaning arsenal. In particular, we recommend investing in an algae scrubber or scraper for glass and acrylic aquariums, such as the Seachem Algae Scraper, as well as an aquarium syphon cleaner such as the Fluval Gravel Vac to help clear algae from substrate.
Once your fish tank is in better shape and algae isn’t climbing over every available surface, another effective method to try is the addition of aquarium algae treatments. Unfortunately, many algae treatments on the market can be damaging to your fish and plant life, and some are only suitable for certain types of tanks, so it's important to be very careful when selecting the right solution for you.
To help you protect your tank inhabitants, we’ve listed three of the best algae treatments for fish tanks below, along with advice on when they're suitable to be used.
Suitable for use in freshwater aquariums, Tetra’s Algumin Algae Treatment is a biological which is designed to effectively combat all types of commonly-occurring algae. When dose recommendations are closely followed, this treatment is harmless to all freshwater tank inhabitants, including fish, plants and microorganisms.
Perfect for fishkeepers looking for a fast, easy solution, NT Labs’ Algae Gone is designed to combat algae, green and cloudy water in a single dose. It does this by clumping particles together, which can then be handled by your tank’s filtration system. This option can be used in both tropical and coldwater aquariums, and is plant and shrimp safe.
Lastly, API’s Prevent Algae solution is designed to target the food supply that algae needs to thrive, namely phosphates. With this essential nutrient removed, algae is starved of what it needs to grow. An ongoing treatment which should be added in doses on a weekly basis, Prevent Algae is suitable for freshwater and saltwater aquariums and is safe for use in tanks with fish, plants, corals and invertebrates.
Last but not least, our final suggested method on controlling algae is to introduce some algae-eating species into your tank. As with the algae treatments, the type of species you can add to your tank will depend on the type that you have, so we’ve put together a list below to help you decide which algae-eating fish, snails and shrimp can live in your tropical aquarium.
One thing to keep in mind when introducing any algae eating fish to your aquarium, whether you’re choosing from our list or going off a recommendation from a fellow fishkeeper, is that your new tank inhabitants will need a suitable source of aquarium food. Contrary to popular belief, algae eating fish should not just be left to survive on algae, and will need a varied diet just as much as any other fish.
Siamese Algae Eater
Easy to care for and endlessly helpful, the clue is in the name when it comes to the Siamese Algae Eater. A hungry little fish which is affectionately likened to a rubbish bin by many fishkeepers, the Siamese Algae Eater will happily nibble away at algae growing on the surface of your tank, and will help itself to other snacks available to it, including leftover foods that have sunken to the bottom of the tank.
Additional traits that make this tropical algae-eater a favourite among beginners and enthusiasts alike is its easy going nature. A peaceful neighbour to most other species, the only thing you need to watch out for with the Siamese Algae Eater is their tendency to jump - so if you add a few of these to your tank be sure to keep the lid tightly closed.
Bristlenose Plecostomus (Bristlenose plecos)
A small breed of catfish that are particularly striking in appearance, the Bristlenose Plecostomus are another efficient type of algae-eater for a tropical aquarium. Not unlike the Siamese Algae Eater, the Bristlenose Plecos is known for its ability to chomp its way through algae while peacefully living alongside a range of other species.
In terms of ideal living conditions, this particular type of fish prefers to stay at the bottom of its tank, keeping close to hiding spaces such as small cave-like ornaments and pieces of driftwood. One thing to note is that they eat quite a lot, so if your algae growth is minimal, consider dropping some sinking pellets into the tank to keep them well fed.
Otocinclus Catfish (Otos)
While popular breeds of tropical algae-eaters such as the Siamese and Bristlenose are ideal for managing algae in a medium to large tank, those with smaller aquariums can rely on the Otocinclus Catfish. Sometimes called a Dwarf Sucker, these little fish measure between 1 - 2 inches in length, and are known for picking away algae from very small nooks and crannies, such as tank corners and the tiny dips of an intricate decoration.
Even as small as they are, Otos have a sizable appetite, so if naturally-occurring algae is lacking, then supplement the diet with fish-friendly vegetation like a little bit of courgette.
Chinese Algae Eater
If you’re looking for a more substantial algae eater that can keep up with more aggressive fish, then the Chinese Algae Eater might be your best bet. Growing up to 10 inches long, and semi-aggressive to some fish (particularly those who are close in size and colouring), it's recommended that these fish don’t be kept in pairs. In order to keep aggressive behaviour to a minimum and maintain the harmony in your tank, Chinese Algae Eaters should be given plenty of space to swim, meaning medium to large tanks that aren’t overcrowded are most suitable.
Another important thing to keep in mind with this species of algae eater is that they have particularly large appetites, especially as adults. If they don’t have access to a suitable diet, they have been known to latch onto larger fish to eat their slime coat. This can pose a significant threat to the larger fish as they can become injured and leave them open to infection.
Nerite Snail
The most popular of all algae-eating snails, Nerite Snails are a favourite of many freshwater fishkeepers thanks to the impressive patterns on their shells. The Tiger Nerite Snail (pictured above) for example, has a tiger-like stripe pattern which makes it a striking addition to any tank. These little creatures are as functional as they are enjoyable to look at, and are happy to eat all types of algae and so do a great job of keeping your tank clean.
As with a lot of snails, shrimp and other invertebrates, including the others included in this list, they are likely to be targeted by large fish like Cichlids and Loaches. Because of this, if you have large fish in your tank, then we don’t recommend introducing these more vulnerable species into the mix.
Apple Snail / Golden Mystery Snail
A snail of many names, the Apple Snail (also known as the Golden Mystery Snail, Golden Inca Snail and Yellow Snail) are effective algae eaters and eye-catching tank inhabitants. Golden yellow in colour, these beautiful snails are easy to take care of and prefer sharing their space with other non-aggressive tank mates. Another thing to keep in mind when caring for a scavenger like the Apple Snail is that they have a good appetite, which should be supplemented with algae wafers to ensure they have enough to eat.
Red Cherry Shrimp
Another stunning addition to any freshwater tank, the Red Cherry Shrimp will gladly assist you with your algae issue. This little critter will chomp away at any green or brown growing across ornaments and tank glass, and will also happily enjoy other traditional fish food options including shrimp pellets, sinking pellets and algae wafers. Natural explorers, it's also a good idea to introduce some additional elements into your aquarium along with the Red Cherry Shrimp to keep them entertained and happy, such as a sponge filter (which they’ll enjoy picking trapped food from) and some air stones (which will improve water circulation).
Amano Shrimp
A species which thrives in a planted environment, Amano Shrimp are friendly little creatures who prefer to live in groups of six or more. Though peaceful and dutiful algae eaters, they have some interesting behaviours that make them particularly entertaining tank inhabitants to have. In particular, when they shed their shells (which happens roughly once per month) they tend to go into hiding. In contrast, when feeding time comes around they tend to become more frantic and excitable.
Whiptail Catfish
For fishkeepers struggling to manage algae levels in a larger tank, Whiptail Catfish are an ideal choice. Almost reptilic in appearance, and particularly happy in peaceful tanks with other non-aggressive species, these fish are bottom dwellers and like to spend most of their time resting on sandy substrates. In terms of diet, they like to eat algae, but also require some additional food such as sinking pellets, blanched vegetables and bogwood.
Twig Catfish
Not the easiest algae-eating fish to look after (hence their low placement on our list) Twig Catfish require more specialised care than some of the other species on this list, and shouldn’t be taken on by beginners. Happiest when kept in pairs, this freshwater algae-eater is shy and peaceful in nature, and prefers not to be kept with larger fish as they tend to be easily stressed when confronted.
We hope this guide was useful for you and helps you to find a solution to your algae issue. Of course, every tank is different, so it’s best to think about your tank size, temperature, PH, tank cleaning regime and how effective your aquarium components are to come up with a bespoke solution that works for you.
If you’re still not sure, then we welcome customers to get in touch with us to receive bespoke advice, particularly when it comes to tank upgrades and components that could provide you with a long-term solution and keep your aquarium algae under control. If you’re looking for more help, simply get in touch with us by filling out our contact form.
]]>One of the most exciting parts of setting up an aquarium (beyond choosing and bonding with your beautiful new fishy friends), designing and decorating your fish tank takes a fair amount of thought, time and creative flair. As much as we may wish that aquascaping was as simple as throwing in a few rocks and shells and calling it a day, creating a truly spectacular fish tank design isn’t quite that easy.
Fortunately, whether you’re brand new to fishkeeping and have an empty tank waiting to be filled, or want to revamp your current aquarium to make it feel new, our experienced fishkeepers are here to help. From tips to consider when decorating a fish tank, to exciting ideas, themes and decoration suggestions, find all the inspiration you need to transform your tank into something special at Aquacadabra.
Decorating a fish tank, just like any other element of fishkeeping, needs to be done with a fish-first mentality. After all, the last thing you want to do is add something to their environment that could potentially harm them. Even so, danger isn’t lurking around every sunken pirate ship, and you can still have fun, just follow our 5 top tips to keep your fish safe and minimise disruption:
Yes! Far more than just an aesthetic choice, a well-decorated tank is important to the happiness and health of your fish. In fact, having a range of aquarium decorations spread through your tank can have considerable benefits for your fish, including better colouration, decreased likelihood of illnesses and being more active, all of which are down to their feeling more comfortable and safe in their space.
Yes, the majority of common aquarium fish do like to have an environment with lots of decorations in it. The amount of decorations you’ll want in your aquarium will depend on the type of fish you have but, as a rough guide, decorations should cover around 50-70% of your tank. Where you sit within this band will depend on what fish tank design you prefer (zen themed aquariums are usually more sparsely decorated in comparison to busier planted aquariums), as well as whether your fish prefer lots of places to hide or plenty of swimming space.
With the essential guidelines of decorating covered, and you’re safe in the knowledge your fish will survive your remodelling of their home, it’s time to move onto the fun bit; creating an interesting fish tank design. To help you out, we’ve collated three of the most popular fish tank themes to try to recreate yourself, as well as some key product recommendations from the range of fish tank decorations here at Aquacadabra.
Following a theme is one of the easiest, and often cheapest, ways to decorate a fish tank. This is because most ornament designers, such as Marina, Biorb and Aqua One will sell full matching sets which follow a certain theme. Even if you’d prefer to get a little more creative and put together your own collection of ornaments, backdrop and plants, if you go with a commonly-used theme you’re more likely to have a wider range of options to choose from.
Dramatic and fun, especially if you have young ones in the house, designing a glow in the dark fish tank is easy thanks to Marina’s iGlo collection. From the full aquarium kit, which comes complete with a tank, filter media, and iGlo decorations that turn fluorescent under the built-in blue LED lighting, to individual dramatic ornaments such as the galaxy gravel, artificial plants and magical mushroom house, building a cohesive aquarium theme is easy.
An all-time favourite that is suitable for fishkeepers of all ages and experience levels, a traditional fish tank is a theme which leaves plenty of room for creativity. As with the zen theme, any size or shape fish tank will do, with the Superfish Home 30 Aquarium being a good option for those looking for a well-priced tank. After this, the three most important components of any classic aquarium are a blue, water-styled background, a set of green artificial plants and rocks, and, most importantly, a traditional ornament. Some of the most popular choices include a wrecked pirate ship or magic castle, but one of our favourites is the sunken diver helmet.
Whether you’re looking to recreate one of our favourite fish tank designs, or are still gathering ideas, browse through the full fish tank decorations collection at Aquacadabra. Filled with backgrounds, substrates, ornaments and more, you’ll have a stunning tank design to be proud of in no time!
]]>A daunting challenge that almost every fishkeeper will have to face sooner or later, moving a fish tank is no easy feat. Not just a case of asking your strongest friends to lend a hand, telling your fish to hold tight and lifting on the count of three, moving an aquarium is a long process which takes a lot of care and patience. Only through this will your established underwater ecosystem be able to survive the trip, long or short, to its new home.
Whether you’re moving house with a fish tank, or are just rearranging your own home and need to know how to move a fish tank a short distance, our handy guide will take you through everything you need to know. To help make the move as safe and stress-free as possible, for both you and your fish, our step-by-step guide also includes a list of essential equipment, advice on how to transport fish safely and a list of FAQs to give you all the information you could need before you start the process of moving your fish tank.
As any experienced fishkeeper will know, the most important factor in keeping healthy, happy fish is to keep their stress levels as low as possible. Not unlike other pets, and even ourselves, high stress levels can leave fish more susceptible to illnesses. In most cases, the best way to keep fish stress levels low is to maintain a comfortable environment that supports their well being. Unfortunately, when moving an aquarium, this is a near-impossible task, but there are ways to reduce the impact moving can have on your livestock, all of which we will cover below.
When moving a fish tank of any size, there are a few essential pieces of equipment that you’ll need to have on hand to make the process go smoothly. Some of these you’ll likely already have, such as a fish net, while others you might need to purchase. Fortunately, all of these items can be used more than once, and some of the larger items you might even be able to rent from your local pet store to help keep costs down.
At Aquacadabra, our aquarium fish nets collection features nets in a range of sizes and shapes suitable for fish of all species. For a sturdy, hard-wearing option that will last, the Interpet Aquarium fish net is a great option, with size options ranging from a 3 inch net up to a 10 inch net, with more options available in between for medium sized tank dwellers.
The most important item on the list, finding suitably-sized bowls or bags to transport your fish is key to keeping them alive and calm until they can be reintroduced to their home. Spacious and secure, the Superfish Koi Bowl with Zip Cover is a great option for this and, with the addition of an air pump, fish can be left for hours at a time.
While specially-designed bowls are best suited to transporting fish safely, for moving the rest of the water from your fish tank you’ll need to get enough clean plastic tubs or buckets with tight-fitting lids. This not only gives you peace of mind that you won’t spill any water, but, if you’re also transporting live plants, this is also the way to do it.
Needed for syphoning the water from your tank into your fish transportation bowl and any additional water buckets, you may already have a syphon set in your fish tank accessory kit to use for water changes and cleaning. If you don’t, however, the Superfish Aqua Syphon Set is a great affordable option that is perfect for small to medium sized aquariums. For larger tanks, the Oase Gravel Cleaner and Syphon Water Change Set is another ideal choice.
Depending on how far you have to travel with your fish safely stored in their transportation bowl, it might be worth investing in a battery powered air pump to ensure their water remains aerated for the duration of their travels.
With all of your equipment gathered and ready, the last two things you’ll need before you get started is some help (moving an aquarium is not a one-person job, no matter how small the tank is) and plenty of time. From syphoning the water into buckets to carefully removing the fish, decor and equipment, moving a fish tank is a time-consuming process, and it's not over until everything has once again been set up and is running smoothly in its new location.
Before you do anything, it's important to remember not to feed your fish for 24 hours before removing them from the tank. This will limit the amount of fish waste they produce while they’re being transported, which will in turn keep harmful ammonia levels low in their temporary environment in the absence of a filter.
When you’re ready to start the process of moving your fish tank, your first task is to turn off and remove any equipment you use in your tank, including any heaters, pumps or filters. Each piece of equipment requires a different removal and transportation method, so read each individual piece of guidance below to make sure nothing is damaged in the move.
With the equipment safely removed, it’s time to get your water containers and syphon and begin moving the water from your tank into the lidded plastic buckets or boxes. It’s best to move around 75% - 80% of the tank water into your storage containers, with some also used to fill the containers you’ll move your fish and any plant life into. By saving as much of your water as possible, you can also limit the amount of water changes you’ll need to do when setting up your tank in its new location.
Carefully remove the fish from your tank using your aquarium fish net to catch and lift them from the water, before adding them to their temporary container. While we would recommend removing fish before touching anything else in the tank to limit stress levels of your tank inhabitants, if you have large decor pieces such as rock structures, pirate ships and anything in-between, these may need to be removed first. This limits the hiding places your fish can swim into to evade the fish net, allowing this step to go more smoothly.
Our top fish transporting tips:
If you have life plants in your aquarium, these can be removed next by gently lifting them from their place and putting them into either water-filled containers or bags. Make sure to seal the container to prevent water spillages and remove the risk of drying out the plants.
The next thing to remove from your fish tank is any decor, including fake plants, rocks, ornaments and anything else in-between. These should be stored in water-tight containers, with the weightiest items spread out to ensure no single box is too heavy to lift.
With all but the tank substrate removed, the next step is to syphon out as much of the remaining water as possible. This will give you the best start possible when setting up your aquarium in its new position as you will need to spend less time doing water changes, or treating and preparing new water if a large volume is needed.
While some may be tempted to skip this step to save some time, especially if the moving distance is particularly short, the best way to move a fish tank is always to remove everything in the tank - including gravel or sand. This is because the substrate is quite heavy, and can damage the seals on a fish tank if left in place.
When removing gravel from an aquarium, all you need to do is scoop out as much as you can using whatever you have to hand, whether that be a clean dustpan, jug or plastic scooper, and place it into more water-tight containers. One of the most important rules to remember when removing your tank substrate is not to rinse or wash it, as this could remove the helpful bacteria living there.
Finally, with the water, fish, plants, equipment, decor and substrate all removed and safely packed away, you can now move your fish tank. How you do this will depend on how far you’ll be moving it, so follow the instructions below which suit your situation best:
The very last step in moving your aquarium is to set it back up. This is a time-consuming process so, in order to reduce the amount of time your fish spend in their temporary home, make sure to start it as soon as possible by doing the following:
While it may be tempting to avoid going to the effort of carefully emptying, moving and re-filling your tank if you’re only moving it a short distance, especially if it’s reasonably small and not too heavy, this is something we absolutely advise against doing. Beyond it being the best and safest way to keep your fish and plants happy through what is an understandably stressful time, this is also the cheapest way to move your tank. After all, should something go wrong, buying new livestock, replacing damaged equipment and purchasing a brand new tank is significantly more expensive than investing in the short list of supplies needed to safely move a fish tank.
No, you should never move a fish tank with water in it, or anything else for that matter, as the weight and sloshing of the water presents a number of safety hazards that put both yourself and the tank in danger. Common hazards include slippages caused by water spillage, as well as broken seals caused by excess weight.
No, even when some of the water is removed, any remaining water and gravel weight continues to pose a threat to the safety of all involved. No matter how many safety precautions are made to protect those moving the aquarium, the tank itself also remains at risk of broken materials and compromised seals, which is a particularly expensive risk to take.
You should never ever move a fish tank with fish in it. On top of the regular risks associated with moving an aquarium with water in it, this choice puts all of your tank inhabitants in physical danger, as well as heightening their stress to unacceptable levels. Even the most hardy fish will react badly to such a situation.
When moving a heavy fish tank it is essential that as much weight as possible is removed from the tank. This means following the above instructions on how to move a fish tank to the letter, ensuring that water, fish, plants, decor and gravel are all carefully and safely removed before ever trying to move the tank itself.
Our tips for moving a heavy aquarium:
From small-but-essential equipment that you’ll reuse time and time again, to large transportation containers that will keep your fish safe and calm during the move, moving a fish tank is a big operation - and one which calls for a range of supplies.
If you’re planning to move your aquarium and want to do everything you can to make it go as smoothly as possible, revisit our suggested essentials at the beginning of this blog, or browse through our wide range of practical aquarium accessories and water quality products online.
]]>If you’ve been waiting to bring the fishkeeping hobby into your own home with a brand new aquarium, then look no further than Aquacadabra’s latest competition.
With the amazing prize of a Superfish Start 150 Aquarium and Stand set up for grabs, which comes complete with a range of starter accessories to get your tank up and running, you could be in with the chance of winning a full starter set worth over £350 - all you need to do is enter below!
A beginner fishkeeper’s dream, the Superfish Start Aquarium is the perfect tank to get you started with your new hobby. Coming equipped with an internal filter, LED light and Superfish eco heater, and with your choice of either a black or white stand, your new aquatic friends have all their environment essentials covered. Beyond this, the Superfish Start also comes with Aqua Start Water Conditioner, Bacto Start Filter Start, a Thermometer and Hikari Tropical Fish Food, so all you have to do is add the water and the fish!
If you want the chance to set up your own Superfish Start Aquarium, simply fill in your details below by the 25th of October 2022 to be entered into the draw. You can also get bonus entries every time you share the competition on social media.
Good luck!
Competition Terms & Conditions
Available to UK entrants only. Over 18s only. Prize includes the Superfish Start 150 Aquarium & Stand in black or white. No cash alternative available. Competition closes midday 25th October 2022. Winner will be announced on Aquacadabra social media channels.
At Aquacadabra, our aquascaping experts are regularly met with questions on how to create and care for a planted aquarium by fishkeepers ready to take the plunge. From finding the right aquarium plant soil, lighting and fertiliser to keep your ecosystem healthy, to picking out the best plants for an aquarium and planting them in their new home, there is a lot to learn. Fortunately, with our helpful aquarium planting tips and long-term care guide, you’ll have a thriving underwater jungle in no time.
As beautiful as they are, the answer is no; live aquarium plants are not an essential for fish tanks. While they may not be needed, however, the advantages of creating a planted aquarium are considerable, and not just from an aesthetic perspective. A multi-purpose addition to any tank, plants offer a range of health benefits to tank inhabitants, can save you from intensive algae removal and treatments, and reduce your need to encourage oxygen production through air pumps.
Not unlike green garden spaces or indoor potted plants, learning to care for aquarium plants is simple and straightforward. Completely accessible to beginner fishkeepers of any skill level, the process of planting aquarium plants doesn’t take too much time or effort, and ongoing care requires even less, but there are still some equipment purchases and ongoing responsibilities that can’t be avoided. If you’re dedicated to creating the best possible planted aquarium, however, and are able to keep on top of a regular care schedule, you’ll need the following five essentials:
Unsurprisingly, in order to create a planted aquarium, you’ll first need to buy a tank! Fortunately for aquarium aquascapers just testing out the waters with a tight budget, plants can be added to a wide variety of fish tank sizes and shapes, so even if you have a small aquarium, you can still test out your skills. Even so, for a big aquascaping project, we recommend investing in a large, spacious aquarium, such as those from the Juwel Aquariums collection. Tanks such as the Juwel Rio 180 LED Aquarium are big enough to allow you more freedom when it comes to your aquarium planting ideas, while simultaneously leaving enough swimming space for your tank inhabitants and giving your plants more space to grow without competing with each other for light and nutrition.
Unless you’re only interested in floating plants, you’ll need to add plant substrate for aquariums to your tank to provide a safe, nutrient-filled base for their roots to grow. This comes in all shapes and sizes, so you have a lot of freedom to choose a substrate that you both like the look of, and that your chosen plants will be happy to grow into. At Aquacadabra, we have a wide range of aquarium plant soil, natural substrates, fish tank sand and gravel to choose from, so finding the best aquarium plant substrate for your tank is assured. If you’re not sure what to look for, we’ve also included two of our top-recommended plant substrates later on in this blog to give you some direction.
Whether planted outside in the garden or kept inside in a pot or aquarium, plants of all types require light to grow and thrive. That’s why, when it comes to creating a healthy planted aquarium, you need to invest in suitable lighting options. For this, we would recommend everyone from beginners to experienced aquascapers invest in an LED lighting system. Not only are these economical and long-lasting, many also give the freedom to experiment with lighting intensity and colour spectrum to create a visually stunning environment that is beneficial to the growth of your chosen plant types.
Essential to ensuring your planted aquarium receives all the nutrients it needs to grow, aquarium plant fertiliser is an inexpensive, low maintenance way of encouraging luscious growth quickly. At Aquacadabra, we have a range of aquarium plant food options to choose from, including Evolution Aqua’s "Aquascaper" Liquid Plant Food, Tropica’s Premium Nutrition Plant Fertiliser and Tetra’s PlantaMin, to ensure fishkeepers can find an option that suits their care schedule and brand preferences.
An often overlooked, though non-essential, element of growing aquarium plants, including a CO2 aquarium kit in your planted setup coils help to ensure they have access to a consistent and sufficient amount of one of their absolute life necessities: carbon dioxide. Particularly useful for advanced plant species with high CO2 dosage demands, we recommend installing both a Fluval CO2 Indicator Set, which works to gauge the carbon dioxide levels in your tank, as well as the Fluval Pressurised 95g CO2 Aquarium Kit, which provides a steady stream of carbon dioxide to your tank.
With all of your essential equipment accounted for, the last thing you’ll want to buy is the aquarium plants themselves. These are best bought in your local pet store as you’ll be able to ask for recommendations on the easiest plants to care for and, more importantly, which ones are able to live alongside your current aquarium livestock. Once you’ve chosen your new plants the tricky part begins: planting.
Essential to the ongoing success of your planted aquarium, getting your plants into their new environment properly shouldn’t be rushed, and the method depends on the type of plant you’ve chosen. Below, we’ve detailed how to plant aquarium plants according to type to give you the best chance at succeeding.
The easiest of the types to plant, floating plants simply need to be removed from any packaging and laid gently on the surface of your aquarium. The only thing to keep in mind is the leaves, which should remain facing the correct way up when planted, and should be regularly checked to ensure pesky fish and air pumps don’t flip it over.
A common type of plant that can be easily purchased from most pet shops, potted aquarium plants need to be removed from their plastic pots before they can be planted. With the pot removed, you should next start to gently remove the rockwool material from the base, using tweezers when needed to keep the roots in as healthy a condition as possible. With this done, all you need to do before introducing it to its new home is to carefully trim away the tips of the roots. Finally, you can plant it into the substrate, pushing some of the substrate back into place around the base of the plant to stop it from tipping over.
Once you’ve finished the planting phase, your next step in achieving your perfect planted aquarium is to do all you can to keep your live aquarium plants as exactly that: alive. Not unlike caring for your other tank inhabitants, this requires regular maintenance and attention but, fortunately, not to an excessive degree. Depending on the number of plants you have under your care, all you need to do on a regular basis is continue to add aquarium plant fertiliser, being sure to follow the relevant dosage suggestions, to ensure their nutritional needs are met, continue to keep an eye on the carbon dioxide levels and make sure they’re exposed to around 12 hours of light each day.
As we’ve already mentioned, the range of plant substrates for aquariums is incredibly wide, with everything from traditional aquarium plant soil to more unusual sands and gravels capable of housing and feeding the roots of plants. However, if you’re not sure exactly what you’re looking for, or which are the best brands and types to go for, we’ve put together some of our favourites to guide you through everything on offer.
One of the top-rated planted aquarium substrates available at Aquacadabra, Carib Sea’s Eco-Complete comes highly recommended for people just starting out with their new planted tank. Designed to give your plants all the nutrients they need from the get-go, this substrate contains iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium, sulphur and a range of other essential elements.
A clay gravel that can be used alone or mixed with other gravels, Flourite Black Sand by Seachem is designed to offer a suitable plant substrate for an aquarium. At Aquacadabra, this substrate can be purchased in bags weighing 7Kg, and hasn’t been treated or coated with chemicals, helping to maintain the stability of your tank’s pH levels.
Whether you’re brand new to the world of fishkeeping and are interested in involving live aquarium plants in your first project, or already have a healthy, happy tank that you’d like to convert into a planted aquarium, the aquascaping aquarium experts at Aquacadabra are here to help.
To get started, simply stock up on all your essential planted aquarium supplies, including substrate, lighting and a CO2 aquarium kit, or reach out to the team here by filling out our online enquiry form and we’ll get back to you with personalised advice.
]]>One of the most popular types of fish for beginners and experienced fishkeepers alike, keeping a pet goldfish is easy, fun and incredibly rewarding. As common a choice as they may be, the bright colours, social engagement and noticeable intelligence of goldfish ensure that they are anything but boring. Well-cared for goldfish have even been known to recognise, interact and play with their fishkeepers so, if you’re considering buying yourself or your child a pet goldfish, there are a few things you might want to learn first to ensure your new aquatic friend lives a long, healthy and happy life.
To help get you started on your fishkeeping journey, our experts are here to share their knowledge on keeping goldfish, from the tank setup requirements they have to their ongoing care needs. In no time at all, you’ll know all there is to know about how to look after a goldfish.
Widely considered one of the easiest fish to care for, looking after goldfish is certainly easier than caring for a cat, dog, or even a more delicate fish species like an angelfish or cichlid. You don’t need to walk them, can leave them unattended when on holiday (if you have the right equipment), and don’t need to spend hundreds of pounds on vet bills, but that's not to say that keeping goldfish is going to be a simple swim in the pond.
Just like any other pet, proper goldfish care requires a suitable environment and regular care maintenance tasks. In fact, our guide on how to look after goldfish includes two main pillars; the environment and the care routine. Once you understand everything a goldfish needs to live, and learn how to meet those needs, you’ll be the proud owner of one (or two, or three) happy, healthy goldfish.
A little known fact about goldfish is that they can actually live for decades. All too often, goldfish are seen as hobby pets, fun to have for a year or two but not any longer, when in reality they can live longer than some cat breeds. On average, you can expect to have your pet goldfish for anywhere between 10 and 15 years, though truly well-cared for and hardy breeds can live as long as 30 years.
The first step in establishing proper care for any pet is to build a suitable environment for them, and for a goldfish, you’ll need to buy a fish tank. When shopping for fish tanks, the huge variety can be intimidating, even more so to beginners who aren’t sure what they’re looking for, so we’re here to help you find the perfect goldfish tank for your new aquatic pet.
While infant goldfish are usually only around 1 to 2 inches long, the average size of an adult goldfish kept in an aquarium is around 6 inches long. This may seem like trivial knowledge, but it’s incredibly important to the health of your pet goldfish to ask these questions before buying a tank because the size of your fish, no matter its species or breed, directly influences the size of the environment it needs.
Once you know how big your chosen goldfish can get, the next natural step is to ask ‘how much space does a goldfish need?’ If your fish grows to 6 inches, for example, in order to have enough space for swimming and safe water filtration it’ll need a tank of at least 30L. If you want to keep two goldfish, your tank size will need to double, meaning you should be on the lookout for a 60L tank. However many fish you’re considering caring for, you can use our handy ‘How many fish should you put in a fish tank?’ blog as a guide.
Technically, yes, you can keep a goldfish in a bowl, but perhaps not the type of bowl that most people imagine. Instead of a small, glass bowl which would limit the growth and lifespan of your goldfish, the best way to achieve the traditional goldfish bowl look, without risking the health of its inhabitants, is to select one of the modern alternatives made by leading fishkeeping brands such as biOrb.
Designed to provide a safe, spacious and clean environment for goldfish, the biOrb Halo 30L MCR LED Aquarium is the perfect modern goldfish bowl. Offering a water capacity of 30L (enough for one adult goldfish), this ingenious design offers a traditional aesthetic with all the amenities modern fishkeeping technology allows, including an inbuilt filtration system, LED lighting with remote multi-colour control, pump and air stone.
While it was once considered a life-endangering choice to keep a fish in a goldfish bowl, with the design leaps made by biOrb in the creation of their Halo and Classic aquarium models, the debate between goldfish bowl and goldfish tank has become entirely a matter of personal choice. Provided you opt for a suitable sized aquarium for your pet goldfish, you’re free to choose between goldfish bowls and tanks safe in the knowledge that the filter and additional equipment can meet their needs.
Yes, including an efficient filter in your goldfish tank setup is incredibly important. Not only does a goldfish tank filter help to keep the water quality at good levels, which in turn reduces the risk of illness, but can also help to reduce the frequency that manual cleaning duties are needed, saving you time and effort in the long run.
Aside from that all-important goldfish tank filter, your goldfish tank setup should also include the following equipment:
With all of your essential equipment taken care of, the last environmental factor you need to consider for your goldfish tank setup is the water itself. While it may seem tempting to just fill it up and leave it, water straight from the tap is potentially deadly and needs to be properly treated before letting any fish call it their new home. Fortunately, in order to neutralise the chemicals found in tap water, all you’ll need is to mix it with a water conditioner for goldfish which will dechlorinate the water and make it safe for aquatic life.
Once your water is added, the last step in creating the perfect environment for your new pet goldfish is to cycle the water. If you’ve never done this before, or aren’t sure what cycling a system means, you can find everything you need to know in our comprehensive guide to cycling a fish tank.
Top tip: When you’re introducing your pet goldfish to their new home, regardless of whether you’re using the fish-in or fishless water cycling method, it’s best practice to carefully acclimate your fish to their surroundings, rather than just add them in. Our best piece of advice for doing this is to slowly add dechlorinated water from the new tank into their bag or a separate tank to allow them more time to adjust to the new water. When finally introducing them to the new tank, make sure that none of this water is moved over to help reduce the risk of bringing any contaminants into the clean aquarium.
Once you’ve established a safe and hospitable environment for your new fishy friend, learning how to look after a goldfish is your only remaining task. Fortunately, the goldfish care regime is simple and fun, letting you gradually learn the basics of fishkeeping while spending time with your new pet.
Just like any other fish, goldfish require a healthy, nutritious and balanced diet to help keep them in top condition and finding goldfish food is remarkably easy. At Aquacadabra, we have a wide range of goldfish food to choose from, including Tetra Goldfish Flakes, Fluval Bug Bites Goldfish Flakes and Aquarian Goldfish Flake Fish Food, so the only challenge in feeding your goldfish is making sure you’re giving them the right amount.
Overfeeding your goldfish can prompt a wide variety of problems that range from environmental to fish illnesses. Overeating is associated with illnesses such as fin rot, fatty liver and improper digestion but, even if these symptoms don’t occur, you run the risk of polluting your tank environment with too much ammonia through excessive amounts of fish waste or decomposing food leftovers. To make sure your tank stays safe from these risks, make sure to refer to the portion advice provided on the goldfish food packaging. Alternatively, a good rule of thumb is to give your fish only as much as they can eat within two minutes and, if you start to see any symptoms of overfeeding, limit the portions they receive each day.
A large part of good goldfish care is the creation of a regular maintenance routine to protect the water quality and cleanliness of the tank. Tasks should include the following, all of which should form part of your weekly maintenance schedule.
Keeping a goldfish, whether you’re starting out as a beginner or want to introduce your children to your hobby in an accessible way, is a fun and rewarding experience, especially once you understand the responsibilities that are associated with good goldfish care.
If you’re ready to get your own pet goldfish, start browsing through our wide range of 30L goldfish tanks at Aquacadabra. Already fitted with all the equipment you need to create a safe environment for your new goldfish, our range features high-tech, modern aquarium systems including the Fluval Flex 34L Black Aquarium, Superfish Qubiq 30 Aquarium and biOrb Life Portrait 30 MCR Tank. Alternatively, if you need any help picking out the right goldfish tank setup for your needs, our friendly experts are always available to lend a hand.
]]>If you’re thinking of setting up a pond but don’t know where to start, look no further!
Here at Aquacadabra, we’re giving away a Blagdon Affinity Mocha Grand Corner Pool worth over £600!
Provided as an all-in-one package, it includes everything you'll need to get started with your own pond at home. A magnificent grand pond, internal liner, three windows to get a glimpse of the underwater world, a pump with filter, ultraviolet clarifier and automatic night time lighting are all provided in the prize - all you need to do is add water and fish. In short, this prize is everything you need to enjoy a pond at home without any digging!
Entering couldn’t be easier, simply fill in your details below by 3rd May 2022 for your chance to win. Plus, we’re giving bonus entries every time you share the competition on social media to increase your chances of winning.
Good luck!
Competition Terms & Conditions
Available to UK entrants only. Over 18s only. Prize includes Blagdon Affinity Mocha Grand Corner Pool. No cash alternative available. Competition closes midday 3rd May 2022. Winner will be announced on Aquacadabra social media channels.
]]>One of the most beautiful times of year to spend relaxing outdoors; garden ponds are transformed during the summer months. Filled with life and activity, summer ponds are a sight to behold whether they are large, small, stocked with growing fish or thriving aquatic plants. No matter the type of pond, however, where there is beauty there is also challenge. From spreading weeds and algae to evaporating and cloudy water, summer ponds require some maintenance tasks to keep them looking their best.
If you’re determined to keep your pond in its most beautiful and healthy state this summer, our expert pond keepers at Aquacadabra are ready to help. In this post, we’ll be sharing our list of regular pond maintenance tasks to perform through the long summer months, as well as providing some invaluable pond care advice, including how to keep a pond clear and how to clean algae from a pond.
There are many elements that will influence the answer to this question. For example, big summer ponds with a large surface area are more likely to pose a challenge when clearing weeds and algae, while smaller ponds are more likely to suffer from overpopulation issues caused by too many fish. The answer also depends on your definition of ‘easy’, as no pond will thrive without some level of care.
Even so, regular pond maintenance tasks aren’t too time consuming, don’t need to be expensive (especially when you know the best money-efficient tricks and long-term solutions) and can even be therapeutic. Provided you have the time and dedication to perform these tasks on a regular basis, your pond is likely to respond in kind, providing you with a beautiful view to last all summer long.
Pond maintenance is a year-round responsibility that covers a range of cleaning, clearing and caring tasks. From the pond filter to water quality, every element of your garden pond will require attention and, in summer, the frequency of tasks that need to be completed is increased.
This increase in pond maintenance tasks is caused by the conditions of summer, in particular the higher temperatures, longer daylight hours and increased fish activity, all of which cause an upsurge in algae, aquatic plant growth, ammonia levels and more. If you want to keep your summer pond from being overwhelmed by these elements, increasing your care schedule to match your pond's required needs is the only way to do so.
In order to help you create a routine, and understand exactly what goes into pond maintenance if this is your first summer as a pondkeeper, we’ve put together a handy list of tasks you can expect to do:
Don’t worry if you aren’t familiar with any of them, we’ll be diving into greater detail next.
It’s also important to keep in mind that, while these pond maintenance tasks apply to most summer ponds, they do not apply to all, and their required frequency will naturally change from pond to pond. Use your best judgement and the knowledge you’ve built up over the months and years you’ve had your pond to create a schedule that suits your pond’s needs, and don’t be afraid to make adjustments as required.
Keeping on top of general pond cleanliness, water quality and aquatic plant and livestock health are all chores which should be completed regularly throughout the year. However, when the summer sun is beaming down for 16 hours each day and the temperatures begin to push above 20℃, how often they need to be completed increases.
During the summer, the stresses placed on your pond filter and pump are increased significantly and, as such, they require more regular maintenance than any other time of the year. We recommend that you double the frequency of your cleaning regime through warmer months, making sure you remove debris, clean the filter and check the filter media twice as often as normal.
If you have a UV clarifier in your summer pond, it is also worth checking that the UV bulb doesn’t need to be replaced. Usually these bulbs will require replacing every six months, but this depends on how much it’s used and worn out during the particularly sunny summer months. If it does, we have a wide range of replacement UV bulbs at Aquacadabra from trusted brands including Hozelock, Cloverleaf and Laguna.
Debris is a common problem throughout the year, especially in the autumn months where strong winds carry decaying leaves and drop them on ponds. Summer too, sees its fair share of pond debris as vegetation from surrounding plants ends up on the surface, quickly becoming an eyesore for your pond. More than this, however, decaying debris can become a health risk, releasing harmful levels of ammonia for any aquatic livestock that has made your pond their home for the summer.
To avoid allowing your pond water to suffer chemical imbalances from heightened ammonia and nitrites, we recommend keeping on top of debris clearing. This can be done manually on a regular basis, though alternative solutions such as pond cover nets exist to make this task easier. If you’re going on holiday, covering your pond before you go is essential, unless you have someone to complete debris removal while you’re away. The last thing you want is to return to a pond full of sick fish.
While the long daylight hours and warmer weather spell trouble for some areas of a summer pond, they are also responsible for helping aquatic plants thrive. As they grow, however, these aquatic plants will need some extra attention and regular maintenance to keep them from growing out of control. Pruning, deadheading and clearing dying leaves are the easiest tasks to perform, and they will go some way to ensuring that water discolouration is kept to a minimum.
If your summer pond is becoming overgrown with aquatic plants, especially fast-growing and space-greedy submerged plants, more drastic pond maintenance is required. We recommend stopping any overpopulation by carefully removing some of your plants. When doing so, it's also important to include the additional protective step of leaving your removed plants by the side of the pond overnight, as this gives any aquatic friends still living in the foliage the opportunity to return to the pond and make a new home in any of the remaining plants.
Both a blessing and a curse, thriving aquatic plant life may require a lot of care and attention to ensure they aren’t allowed to become overgrown, but they also make your next task a little easier: ensuring your pond is properly aerated.
Oxygen levels should remain a year-round concern of any pondkeeper who stocks their pond with fish and, in the summer months, this becomes even more important. With evaporation reducing water surface area, excessive weed and algae growth suffocating the pond and more, ensuring proper pond aeration often requires additional equipment. For those who prefer a spectacle, adding a waterfall or fountain pump is the best way to increase oxygen water levels, while air pumps and stones are a good quiet alternative.
While the tasks we’ve covered so far will make up part of your regular year-round maintenance routine, there are some jobs which only require attention during the summer months. Caused by the hot, bright conditions of summer, maintaining healthy oxygen levels, controlling algae growth and removing summer weeds will take time and effort to manage.
A common issue with summer ponds is a continuously lowering water level. Caused by hot temperatures evaporating the water, topping up your pond periodically to maintain a healthy level is a summer-long task. In order to ensure the quality of your water and protect your aquatic livestock, we recommend using rainwater, but, if you haven’t set up a collection tank, tap water can be used. If you are using tap water, make sure to treat it first with a dechlorinator and water conditioner to keep the chemicals and nutrients in the water under control.
Extra tip: Whether you’re using rainwater or treated tap water, make sure to add it to your pond in increments, both to limit disruption to the biological balance and to ensure the water temperature doesn’t drop suddenly from too much cold water added.
A pondkeeper’s biggest nemesis in the long daylight hours of the summer months, algae and weeds are an eyesore that can pose a danger to pond and plant life when left to grow in excess. Fortunately, innovative pondkeepers and leading pond care brands have developed countless methods for preventing weeds from overrunning summer ponds. While many keepers create canopies to help shade the pond and add UV lighting as an additional precaution for managing excess light exposure, others choose to focus on keeping nitrate levels low by introducing Zeolite Stones to the water which absorb ammonia. Opting for collected rainwater when refilling your pond is another way to help starve algae and weeds of the nitrates, phosphates and silicates that they need to grow.
We recommend creating your own routine out of these popular preventative measures but, if your pond falls prey to excessive growths, algaecides and weed treatments can still be used to help quickly put an end to the problem. It’s important to remember, however, that you’ll have the additional task of physically removing any sludge sitting at the bottom of the pond caused by the dissolving algae, whether that be by net, filter of pond vacuum, in order to help combat low oxygen levels and reduce the risk of the weed cycle restarting.
Extra tip: If your pond is suffering from blanketweed, discover how to safely and quickly remove and kill the growth in our ‘How do I get Rid of Blanketweed’ blog.
Capable of overheating pond water and contributing to excessive algae growth, having your pond sit in direct sunlight during the long days of summer is less than ideal, and, if your established pond is far from any naturally occurring shade, limiting the number of hours spent in algae-feeding light is a good idea. One of the most aesthetically pleasing ways of doing this is by creating shade with strategically-placed aquatic plants. Tall, leafy bordering plants are a good choice for those with space to spare, while floating plants are ideal for blocking light in above ground ponds. Whichever you choose, help support healthy growth and easy maintenance with pond planting baskets from Aquacadabra.
An unfortunately common characteristic of summer ponds is a build up of foam on the surface of the water. Most often caused by fish spawning, though pollen and some algae treatments can have the same effect, the first task in removing foam is to ensure that it is not appearing as a sign of anything malicious in the water. This is done by performing a simple pond water quality test which will show if any biological or chemical imbalance is present. Once you’ve ensured that nothing is amiss, such as an increased amount of ammonia in the water, you can solve the problem with an anti-foam treatment. For long term management, a surface skimmer is also a good investment.
At Aquacadabra, we have years of experience advising new and experienced pondkeepers on the best ways to keep their pond looking its best all year long. From providing guidance on which algaecides will be most effective for your pond, to helping select pond filter upgrades that will better handle the increased demands of summer, our experts are on-hand to lend their specialist knowledge.
If you require help through your first summer with a pond, or are facing an issue you’ve never encountered before, contact our experts online for a helping hand.
]]>When setting up a fish tank for the very first time, there are a few tasks that can feel rather daunting to an absolute beginner, and cycling a new fish tank is undoubtedly one of them. Vital to the health and wellbeing of your new finned friends, your ability to safely guide them through the aquarium cycle is your first test in creating a happy, comfortable home for them to spend their days. Fortunately, if this is your first time setting up an aquarium and you don’t know how to cycle a fish tank, the experts here at Aquacadabra are ready to take you through the process step-by-step.
If you’re unfamiliar with the tank cycling process and don’t know exactly what it is or why it’s important, then you wouldn’t be the first. Put into the simplest terms, cycling a fish tank is the method by which you ensure that the water in your aquarium is a safe environment for your fish, snails, crabs, plants, coral and more to live. This is done by encouraging new, healthy bacteria to grow in your tank, which will have the job of ensuring that your water goes through the nitrogen cycle without endangering your livestock.
Once this initial aquarium cycle has been completed (with your careful help and encouragement) you can then leave your tank to safely cycle on its own, with those brand new bacteria colonies working hard to keep your tank safe without constant monitoring from you.
The nitrogen cycle, while a little intimidating to influence in your own tank, is very simple to understand. Learn each of the three stages of the nitrogen cycle below:
If this is the first time you’re hearing about the nitrogen cycle in your fish tank, you might be a little intimidated by the mention of toxic chemicals - but you don’t need to worry too much. Cycling a new fish tank is undoubtedly important and requires some effort, but is definitely a manageable task for a beginner fishkeeper. To help take you through the process, we’ve created an easy-to-follow, 5-step guide to tank cycling for you to work through:
Step 1: Set up your tank
Before you can start cycling your tank, you’ll first need to set up your new aquarium. This will include all of the essentials (substrate, lighting system, filter and heater if applicable), as well as your water. It’s also important to make sure that you’re filling your tank with dechlorinated water, as chemicals such as chlorine and chloramine, which are commonly added to tap water for their antibacterial properties, will interfere with the healthy growth of nitrosomonas and nitrobacter bacteria. If you haven’t already, buying a water conditioner, such as the Seachem Prime or Tetra Aquasafe, is recommended to ensure clean water for initial filling and all future water changes.
Once everything has been set up and the equipment turned on, we would recommend leaving the new aquarium to run for around one week before moving onto the next step. During this time, it would also be a good idea to add a filter starter to the system. Bacteria boosters such as Fluval Cycle and ATM Colony help to introduce essential nitrifying bacteria to the filtration system instantly, giving them the headstart they need to grow within days instead of weeks.
Step 2: Introduce livestock
The nitrogen cycle in a fish tank can’t start without that crucial first ingredient: ammonia. And, as ammonia is created through the decomposition of fish waste, you’ll first need to add some fish. Of course, with ammonia being toxic to fish, taking some precautions before the first cycle is a smart move, and we would recommend these two methods. First, start small with just a few fish as this will keep the level of fish waste, and therefore ammonia, to low levels. Second, choose hardy fish for cycling such as tetras and danios, which are more likely to withstand the harsh environments created by the first nitrogen cycle.
Step 3: Limit ammonia production
If you’ve decided to take our advice and only add a small number of fish into your new tank during its first aquarium cycle, then you’ll already have taken the first precaution against the over-production of ammonia. The next piece of advice we can give is to be careful during your feeding time for those fish. Make sure that you don’t overfeed them as they’ll naturally produce more waste, and any uneaten food will also decompose, making matters worse (by producing even more ammonia).
Step 4: Reduce pollutant levels
Once you’ve created the conditions for the nitrogen cycle to start in your new fish tank, it will occur without any extra encouragement from you. From now on, your job is to make sure that your fish survive the process by keeping the ammonia and nitrite levels to a manageable level. This involves changing between 10%-25% of the water in your tank every few days with clean, dechlorinated water to dilute the amount of pollutants in your tank.
Step 5: Monitor cycle progress
Provided you’re staying on top of keeping your cycling tank safe for your hardy livestock, your only remaining job is to keep track of the progress of the nitrogen cycle with a water test kit. Not only can a test kit determine which phase of the nitrogen cycle your aquarium is in, but it can also measure the concentration of ammonia and nitrites in your water, helping you to ensure they’re kept within survivable levels for your fish.
There are a wide range of test kits available at Aquacadabra, including individual ammonia, nitrite and nitrate tests and water test kit sets. Which type of test you want depends on your personal preferences and budget, and you can see a few of our top recommendations below.
While we would recommend investing in an all-in-one water test kit due to its benefits for ongoing maintenance, if you prefer to start with only the essentials, we have individual test kits available which cover each of the three chemicals vital to an aquarium cycle. NT LABS is one trusted brand we have at Aquacadabra, who produce trustworthy and easy to use ammonia, nitrite and nitrate tests for your aquarium.
If you’re committed to conducting regular manual tests to ensure the quality of your aquarium water from the cycle and beyond, investing in a combination test kit set is worthwhile. There are plenty of excellent kits to be found in the collection at Aquacadabra, but we recommend the JBL Test Combi Set plus NH4 kit in particular. Covering a range of water parameter tests, including the cycle essentials of ammonia (NH4), nitrite (NO2) and nitrate (NO4), you’ll know exactly what’s happening in your water.
There you have it: our complete beginners guide to cycling a fish tank. By now, you should hopefully know what the nitrogen cycle is as well as how to make sure it's completed safely in your own new aquarium. Of course, this won’t make you an expert in all things tank cycling, but we’ve put together a few extra pointers below in case you still have any questions.
Unfortunately, yes. Fish who are introduced to a tank will immediately start producing natural waste which will, inevitably, decompose and turn into ammonia. This is the first step in the nitrogen cycle of a fish tank but, without assistance, these highly harmful ammonia levels will build up and pose a serious threat to your aquarium livestock.
If a tank has ‘new tank syndrome’, it has fallen prey to the dangers associated with the first nitrogen cycle and has become saturated with toxic chemicals. Unfortunately, the true danger of new tank syndrome is the effect it can have on any livestock in the aquarium. Unable to stand up to the harsh conditions, fish who live in the ammonia and nitrite rich environment of a tank with new tank syndrome are in serious danger of experiencing illnesses and even death.
As we’ve mentioned, some species of fish have a stronger resistance to living in ammonia and nitrite rich water, though none are immune, so a good idea is to stock your tank with hardy fish for cycling. Such fish include danios, guppies, barbs, minnows and tetras, but if you have your heart set on a specific species for your new aquarium, it’s worthwhile discussing how well they stand up against tank cycling with your local seller. If they wouldn’t recommend them as a hardy fish for cycling, an alternative approach could be to cycle the tank with a few minnows before introducing your more delicate fish further down the line.
While the steps we’ve detailed in this blog can usually be completed within a 6-8 week period, there’s really no telling how long it will take to cycle a fish tank. There are too many variables to consider, from the size of the tank to the number of fish residing in it, so there is no definitive way to put a time scale on such a project. Instead, the only advice we can offer is to be patient and prioritise the health of your fish over any timeline. Once the cycle has been completed, the hard work and effort you’ve put in will start to pay off, and your maintenance duties will be reduced significantly.
Yes, water temperature has a direct impact on a cycling tank. This is because the ultimate goal of cycling a tank for the first time is to grow important nitrifying bacteria, and the temperature needs to be conducive to bacterial growth for this to happen. The best temperature for this is typically between 25-30°C (77-86°F), but this must be balanced with the needs of your chosen livestock. Minnows, for example, need an environment that is kept between 18–22°C (64-72°F), and so couldn’t be kept at such high temperatures. Instead, we would recommend prioritising the temperature your fish need to live and selecting fish which prefer a temperature of at least 18°C as bacterial growth will be significantly diminished in environments colder than this.
If 6-8 weeks sounds too long, there are a few methods you can try to speed up the process. Though we would typically advise beginners to take their time, if you’re determined to quicken your first aquarium cycle, these are our safest recommendations:
Introducing living plants to your aquarium before you add livestock to begin the nitrogen cycle is a good way to speed up the process. This is because aquarium plants use ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as they grow, helping to reduce toxicity levels naturally and maintain a healthy balance in your aquarium. On top of this, plants also carry their own beneficial bacterias which can help to break down ammonia faster than using a biological filter system alone. Of course, caring for aquatic plants brings its own unique challenges down the line (such as pesky plant-eating fish dining on all your hard work), but they are undeniably a beautiful inclusion to have in any fish tank.
One factor that has an impact on the growth speed of nitrifying bacteria is oxygen level. If your tank water is under-oxygenated, both your fish and your bacteria will suffer. In order to increase oxygen levels in your cycling tank, we recommend investing in an oxygen air pump, such as the Eheim Air Pump 400 or TetraTec APS50 Air Pump. This will create a steady and controllable flow of bubbles, helping to boost oxygen levels during your first aquarium cycle and beyond.
As the speed of the aquarium cycle depends on the growth of beneficial bacteria in your tank, one of the easiest ways to shorten the time it takes to complete the first cycle is to introduce live bacteria to your tank right away. A classic tactic shared by experienced fishkeepers is to take filter media from an established aquarium and add it to your new tank. This media will already have a living colony of useful nitrifying bacteria which can jumpstart the cycle in your new fish tank.
Unlike the second tactic for cycling a tank, which relies on access to filter media from an established aquarium, anyone can use a bacteria booster. Available at Aquacadabra, products such as Fluval Cycle and ATM Colony contain commercial grade nitrifying bacteria which can be safely added to a brand new tank to establish a bio-filtration system quickly.
Throughout this guide, our advice and instructions have detailed how to cycle a tank with fish. The most common way to cycle a new tank, the fish-in method can take a long time even when additional quickening techniques are used such as the addition of plants and nitrifying bacteria colonies. Fortunately, if you’re on a tight schedule, or simply don’t want to risk subjecting your fish to a tank with new tank syndrome, there is another method you can try: fishless cycling.
As the name suggests, fishless cycling is the process of cycling a fish tank without fish. There are a number of benefits to this method which make it a good choice for beginners and experienced fishkeepers alike, the biggest one being the significant reduction of risk to fish. Fishless cycling ensures that your finned friends and other aquatic livestock are kept away from the toxic chemicals of a tanks first nitrogen cycle, meaning they can be introduced to a less hostile environment later on.
The other significant benefit of fishless cycling is that it takes significantly less time to complete than cycling with fish, taking as little as 8-12 days, depending on your method. This means that you can get your brand new tank up and running quickly and safely in a matter of weeks.
If you’re considering using the fishless cycling method on your new tank, make sure you do so safely by following our step-by-step instructions.
Step 1: Set up your tank
Just as you would if you were starting the tank cycle using the fish-in method, the first step in fishless cycling is to set up the aquarium. Once again, this will require all of your essential equipment, dechlorinated water and one week of running the aquarium without any interference.
Step 2: Introduce ammonia
After a week of running all of the aquarium equipment, your next task in completing the fishless cycle is to add ammonia. Of course, without fish to produce ammonia through waste, the only option is to introduce the chemical manually. When searching for where to get ammonia for your aquarium, make sure to avoid ammonia solutions such as those you would use for cleaning and instead, choose an aquarium-specific solution, such as Dr Tim’s Ammonium Chloride Solution. Made up of reagent-grade materials, this pure ammonia solution can be added to your aquarium in drops to start the cycle, but the amount you need to add will change depending on the volume of water in your tank. Follow the concentration instructions on your chosen product, using your water test kits to ensure the system isn’t overdosed. As a guide, ammonia concentration in fishless cycling should be kept between 2-3 mg/L, and should not exceed 5 mg/L.
Step 3: Maintain ammonia concentration
Once you’ve added your ammonia solution, your next step should be to leave the tank to cycle without interference for 2-3 days. After this settling period has passed, you’ll need to use your test kits to measure the levels of ammonia and nitrites in the water every 2-3 days, which will allow you to track the appearance of nitrite. Once this chemical begins to appear, you will know that beneficial nitrosomonas bacteria has begun to grow and you can once again increase the ammonia levels (how much you add will once again depend on the product you’ve chosen, but if you’ve opted for our recommended Dr Tim’s Ammonium Chloride Solution, add half of the initial dose).
After this second dosage, continue to monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels every 2-3 days until ammonia levels fall between 0-1 mg/L and nitrite continues to be present. Due to the speed at which ammonia is converted into nitrite, you shouldn’t expect to see any spikes in nitrite until after 2-3 weeks of starting the fishless cycle, but keep monitoring with the regular testing regime all the same. Simultaneously, you should continue adding ammonia at the same intervals, lessening the dose to a quarter of the initial dose to avoid the overproduction of nitrite.
Before long, your water tests should show a drop in the level of nitrite in the water. It is natural for this to occur very suddenly, converting into the final product: nitrate. Once this happens, the last test you’ll need to perform to ensure the fishless cycle has been successful is to add one final, full-sized dose of ammonia to raise the concentration back to 2-3 mg/L. You will know that it’s time to start thinking about adding your fish when this dose is converted overnight from ammonia, to nitrite, to nitrate, the test showing no nitrate present in the water.
Alternative step 3: Use DrTim’s Aquatics One & Only Live Bacteria
As you may have noticed, the fishless cycling technique can take just as much time and effort as the fish-in method. The only way to bypass this is to invest in DrTim’s Aquatics other miraculous fish cycling product, the One & Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria. Capable of speeding up the process considerably, this addition can see a fishless cycle be completed in as little as a week. If this is your preferred method, simply follow the steps 1 and 2 as detailed above, before completing the following tasks.
To recap, on Day 1 you should first add the correct dosage of ammonia solution to your new aquarium and ensure that the concentration measures around 2 mg/L, then you can immediately add your One & Only bacteria (note that, unlike ammonia, you can’t overdose your tank with this product, so there’s no need to be concerned). Once this has been added, you should wait until Day 2 before measuring both the ammonia and nitrite levels in your tank.
On Day 3, test your water again and, if you find that the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen below 1 ppm, you can add another full dose of ammonia (note that, with the addition of One & Only already in the tank, you can no longer use an ammonia test to take this to 2 ppm again, instead simply add the full dose). With this added, continue your daily testing schedule.
Before long, usually between Days 5 or 6, you should see your levels return to below 1 ppm for both ammonia and nitrite. Administer another dose of 2 ppm ammonia solution and continue your daily testing. The goal of this is to continue growing the bacteria colony so that it can convert ammonia into nitrite, then into nitrate quickly, constantly keeping the toxicity of the water at a minimum for your livestock once they’re added.
As soon as you see your ammonia and nitrite levels both reach below 0.2 ppm, add another full dose of ammonia and continue your daily measurements. Continue this process of adding a full dose of ammonia each time both ammonia and nitrite concentrations reach 0.2 ppm until this level is reached within a day of the dose being administered. Once this occurs, your tank has enough healthy nitrifying bacteria to be considered successfully cycled!
Ready to complete your first aquarium cycle? Whether you’re brand new to the challenge of creating a vibrant tank filled with exciting aquarium life, or just needed a quick refresher course before embarking on a new fishkeeping adventure, you’ll find everything you need to master the fish tank cycle at Aquacadabra. From a wide range of water test kits available online to helpful advice from our fishkeeping experts, your new tank couldn’t be in safer hands.
Once you’ve successfully made it through your first tank cycle, you can also find effective and reliable ammonia measurement products online at Aquacadabra to ensure the safety of your fish for years to come. From the affordable Seachem Ammonia Alert to the more advanced Seneye USB Home V2, these helpful monitors will alert you to the appearance of dangerous increases of ammonia in your cycled aquarium, prompting you to take action before it's too late.
]]>Whether you’re a beginner searching for a small first project to get you started or are looking for the best fish tank for kids to involve your little ones in the hobby, our experts here at Aquacadabra can help make affordable fishkeeping a reality. Read on to discover our top rated cheap fish tanks or find cheap fish tank ornaments, gravel and plants to take your hobby to the next level.
Before we get into our favourite top-rated cheap fish tanks, the most important thing to consider is, can you afford the start-up and upkeep costs of your aquarium? While most people calculate the standard equipment of the cheap fish tank, ornaments and gravel, many forget to include additional elements such as food, maintenance equipment and even the fish themselves. To help you get an idea of everything your budget needs to cover, take a look through our list of start-up essentials:
With all your budget requirements accounted for, it’s time to find a cheap fish tank that suits your needs. Try looking through our top recommendations below to narrow down your search.
Designed to be small, modern and very user-friendly, the Ciano Cube is the perfect cheap aquarium for beginners. Featuring both a low-voltage LED over-light system and a Ciano internal filter, this small tank comes equipped with your essentials for fishkeeping all-in-one. The filtration system also comes complete with water clear cartridge and foam, saving you in start-up time and costs.
If you have a little more money in your budget to spend on the base element, the Fluval Chi Aquarium is a cheap fish tank option that offers a little more space and style. Fitted with a safe LED lighting system and power filtration, the Fluval Chi is a manageable 19 litres, which can support a few goldfish or several tropical fish. To help keep costs down further and ensure a stylish, sleek environment that is easy to maintain, this cheap aquarium also comes with a pebble basket and plant basket to be arranged as you’d like.
Only £34.95, the collection of kids fish tanks from Marina are the cheapest on our list, and they have a lot to offer. Each containing a fun backdrop and ornamental graphic as well as an internal filter to keep the water clean and clear, these fun tanks are easy to set up and maintain. Available in four different designs, including deep sea explorer, pirate, unicorn and mermaid, the exciting themes add some extra colour to this starter fish tank for kids.
A fun and colourful alternative to the range of themed Marina kids aquariums, the Marina iGlo 360 brings a unique viewing experience to fishkeeping. As the name suggests, the iGlo 360’s spherical design provides uninterrupted viewing from all angles, and the fluorescent ornaments and included galaxy gravel add some extra interest when the lights go out. With the inbuilt filter and LED lighting system, all that’s left to buy is a Fluval P10 heater (which can be fitted into the filter area) and any extra iGlo fluorescent ornaments or plants you’d like to add on top of the one already included.
Ready to start your search for a cheap fish tank? Get everything you need to introduce yourself or your children to the fun hobby of fishkeeping by searching the collection of small aquariums online at Aquacadabra. Once you’ve picked out your essentials, you can also browse through our range of cheap fish tank ornaments to make your tank feel a little more your own.
]]>In order to create your own Finding Nemo inspired aquarium at home, there are a few things you’ll need to consider before you take on this immense challenge. Everything from fish compatibility to difficulty of care will affect the feasibility of such an endeavour, with any missteps risking the happiness of your Finding Nemo cast. To give yourself the best chance at creating a thriving and happy Nemo fish tank, follow our advice on the specific needs of each member of the Tank Gang, which fish can share an aquarium without fighting and what marine aquarium essentials you’ll need to create a healthy environment for your new friends.
Unfortunately for beginners hoping to dive right into creating their own Finding Nemo fish tank, this is a challenge that should really only be undertaken by experienced fishkeepers. This is because marine tanks require a lot more work, time and money than is needed for setting up and maintaining a regular freshwater tank. On top of this, many of the species that feature in the Finding Nemo Tank Gang are very tricky to care for, making this challenge even more difficult. The work doesn’t stop once the tank is set up either, as marine aquariums also require an understanding of water chemistry to ensure that the basic parameters, such as the water’s salinity, are monitored at least once a week.
If you’re new to fishkeeping, however, there is still a way you can enjoy your own Finding Nemo fish tank replica. To find out more, jump to the ‘Finding Nemo fish tank ornaments’ section of this blog where we’ll advise on what you’ll need to create a freshwater tank that looks like the original without the challenge of caring for delicate marine aquarium creatures.
While the Finding Nemo film introduced this fantastic hobby to an incredible number of people, it was also problematic. The rush of excitement created an unmeetable demand for certain species (especially Nemo himself) that led to unsustainable and unethical fishing. This isn’t something that should ever, ever be allowed to happen, and we’re sure Nemo and Marlin would agree. To ensure you enjoy the fishkeeping hobby responsibly, we would only recommend buying captive-bred fish and ethically-sourced fish for your aquarium.
With our important warnings out of the way, we can say that yes, it is entirely possible to create your own Finding Nemo fish tank at home. In fact, many of the saltwater fish we meet throughout the film are already considered popular aquarium fish, with Nemo and Marlin (Clownfish) as particular favourites for many fishkeepers. Unfortunately, while caring for the individual species is possible, combining them in a single tank as they’re seen in the original dentist’s Finding Nemo fish tank is another matter entirely.
While many of the fish who make up the Tank Gang could happily coexist under the right circumstances, there are a few members who are incompatible with one another. It wouldn’t take long, for instance, for Bloat the Blowfish to start harassing the smaller species of the gang, such as Jacques the Cleaner Shrimp. After this, you might even see the territorial Nemo the Clownfish and the aggressive Deb the Striped Damselfish start fighting.
Fortunately, there are ways to limit the dangers of fish incompatibility (which we’ll go into soon), enough even to create a real life Finding Nemo fish tank, complete with every member of the Tank Gang, but this would be an astonishing feat that would take a lot of time, money, care, maintenance and a very very big fish tank (at least a 200 gallon / 900 litre aquarium) to achieve. Because of this, and because of the risks to fish happiness that would remain even with all of these measures taken, we would recommend creating a more manageable Finding Nemo aquarium that features only your favourite (and friendly) characters.
Before the arrival of Nemo to the dentist’s fish tank, there were seven members of the classic Tank Gang. Each character, all the way from Gill to Bloat, are based on real fish species that you can host in your own saltwater aquarium. Every species has specific traits and needs that should be considered before you introduce them to your own underwater ecosystem, all of which we’ll go over next so you can make informed decisions.
Please also remember that all fish, and marine fish in particular, are delicate and offer unique challenges for fishkeepers of all skill levels. Even expert marine hobbyists will struggle from time to time to care for all the individual needs of their tank residents, so if you’re looking to add a new fishy friend to your established aquarium or start a new Tang Gang from scratch, make sure you always do your research first.
To help you get started with your own Finding Nemo tank, we’ve included advice on fish compatibility for other members of the Tank Gang as well as some information on each member’s specific needs, but even with this head start in place, remember to follow the golden rule of successful fishkeeping and always check all the requirements of any species you choose to add to your tank. Your research should consider every element of your species’ needs and preferences including temperature, dietary requirements, tank size, social needs and more. We recommend being as thorough as possible and only taking on challenges you’re confident you can handle!
One of the most difficult members of the Tank Gang to bring into a home aquarium, Gill is a Moorish Idol fish. As a schooling fish and an active swimmer, Moorish Idols are poorly suited to tank life, with a single adult requiring, at a minimum, swimming space of around 150 gallons. On top of this, Gill would also be an exceptionally difficult fish to care for, due to his typically picky eating habits and the necessity of creating a mature ‘live rock’ aquarium that could facilitate this diet.
Because of the incredible difficulty that is associated with caring for a Moorish Idol fish like Gill, we would recommend only the most experienced fishkeepers take on the challenge. However, if you’re still a beginner fishkeeper and Gill is your favourite character, you could always substitute the Moorish Idol for the very similarly looking (and significantly easier to care for) Longfin Bannerfish. A type of butterfly fish, the Longfin Bannerfish are quite passive and are unlikely to cause any trouble in a tank with other species. They are also considered easy to care for and shouldn't be kept in a saltwater reef tank as they may disturb soft corals. They’re also more susceptible to bullying from larger fish species such as tangs, and should be kept with similarly passive small fish where possible.
One of the most true-to-life characters of the Tank Gang, if you introduce a Skunk Cleaner Shrimp to your Finding Nemo tank they will, like Jacques, spend a lot of their day cleaning. A member of the marine ‘clean up crew’, many fishkeepers include these as similar cleaning species to their tank to help keep up with regular maintenance. They also make a very peaceful addition to most tanks, rarely fighting with other shrimp (should you choose to have more than one) and get along happily with marine fish. The only fish a Skunk Cleaner Shrimp is likely to have issues with are predatory species, such as Bloat the Blowfish, who may attempt to eat little Jacques given the opportunity.
By all accounts, Jacques the Skunk Cleaner Shrimp is an easy addition to most saltwater aquariums, their only special needs being that they will require a tank size of at least 100L and need regular additions of iodine supplements to the tank, which is needed to produce a new exo-skeleton to replace the one they shed every 3-8 weeks.
Another member of the Tank Gang which exhibits similar behaviours common to their species, Gurgle’s anxious, paranoid nature mirrors the hiding and darting movements of his real-life inspiration, the Royal Gramma fish. This species of fish is commonly included in saltwater aquariums and are easy to care for, their only real requirement being that they should be kept away from other fish of the same species. This is because two Royal Gramma fish will act territorially towards one another, sometimes becoming aggressive.
In terms of environment, a real life Gurgle would require a fish tank of at least 100L with plenty of hiding spaces. This means creating rocky structures and using decorations in the middle to low levels of your tank for them to hide in. You’ll often find that Gurgle will swim close to their favourite hiding space, and may even disappear for days at a time to hide between rocks if they feel nervous around or threatened by their larger tank mates.
An uncommon appearance in home aquariums, Peach the Starfish would make a particularly unusual (and beautiful) addition to your Nemo tank. While Peach’s specific species of starfish isn’t clear, if you’re determined to introduce one into your Finding Nemo fish tank we’d recommend the Sand Sifting Starfish. This species’ achievable care level makes it suitable for beginners, though it’s imperative that she only be added to a well established tank of 75 gallons with a deep sand bed. Without this, Peach will have nothing to feed on and will starve quickly.
Unlike the confident and friendly Peach from the film, if you introduce a Sand Sifting Starfish to your Nemo fish tank she might try to eat Jaques the Cleaner Shrimp while Bloat the Pufferfish eyes her up for dinner - so it’s best to choose one of the three. Other than this, however, real life Peach would be a peaceful inclusion in your aquarium provided all of her needs are met.
Portrayed as a friendly fish, if a little delusional due to her invention of her sister Flo, Deb is a Striped Damselfish. These fish are fairly easy to care for, making them suitable for saltwater aquarium beginners, but their aggressive nature makes them difficult tank-mates. Territorial and highly aggressive, these fish shouldn’t be kept in small tanks with other species as fights are likely to occur. In order to keep this under control, we would recommend keeping Striped Damselfish like Deb away from any other fish of the same species and monitoring their behaviour to any other non-aggressive tank occupants as they may fall victim to bullying.
All too often, beginner fishkeepers will introduce the territorial Deb first to their new tank but this is a big mistake and should be avoided. Instead, the best way to reduce the risk of an aggressive Striped Damselfish bullying smaller, more peaceful species is to introduce them later to the tank. By this point, your more peaceful fish will have had time to develop their individual territories without interference.
A particularly striking inclusion to any saltwater tank due to his bright yellow colouring, Bubbles is a Yellow Tang. Tangs are a popular inclusion in many marine aquariums due to their relatively easy-to-care for nature, but there are a few things to consider when creating a community tank, like the Finding Nemo fish tank. Specifically, Yellow Tangs will become territorial when sharing a space with other tangs, including Blue Tangs like Dory.
Other than their territorial nature, Yellow Tangs also require a large amount of space as they are typically long-distance swimmers. The minimum tank size advised for a Yellow Tang is a 300L, 3 foot tank, but to allow them enough swimming space an even larger tank would be better. They are also a herbivore species and require live rock from which to feed, but they are also likely to accept dried seaweed or algae.
If you’re looking to introduce a Yellow Tang like Bubbles into your tank, you should also pay special attention to where you’re shopping. A very rare fish, conservation efforts mean that Yellow Tangs are protected by fishing bans and import from Hawaii is illegal. The result of these restrictions means that captive bred fish are very expensive, so this is something to bear in mind while making your choices.
Not the gentle (and sometimes cowardly) giant he’s portrayed as in the movie, Bloat is a Blowfish and, like other puffer fish in the Tetraodontidae family, he is classed as a predatory fish. Due to his large size and nature, a real life Bloat would pose a significant threat to his smaller tank-mates and shouldn’t be mixed with small fish species or shrimp.
Keeping a Blowfish alone also brings about its own expensive challenges, as the large fish would need a large tank and a protein skimmer in order to stay on top of the level of bio-waste it would produce. Not suitable for beginners, this tricky to care for giant requires a lot of attention, and could even pose a threat to any crustaceans you have and can destroy corals. Overall, while Bloat is undeniably exciting and interesting, he may be more trouble than he’s worth to keep.
The newest member of the Tang Gang, Nemo is a Ocellaris Clownfish and is one of the easiest to care for fish in the dentist’s tank. As such, if you’re creating your own Finding Nemo aquarium at home, starting with a Clownfish is the best first step.
Unlike Nemo, Marlin and Coral, Clownfish who live in tanks don’t require an anemone and will happily acclimatise to your saltwater tank in most cases. Typically territorial, we recommend keeping only a single or a pair of Clownfish in one tank as they’re likely to fight and become aggressive when faced with larger numbers of the same species. In order to help them claim territories in a larger tank with a community of fish, we also recommend ensuring there are plenty of rocky structures available as this will separate the space.
When it comes to choosing a Clownfish or pair of Clownfish for your Finding Nemo tank, you’ll also be met with more variety than you may have expected. In recent years, more and more new strains of Clownfish have been bred, offering fishkeepers a spectacular array of fish to choose from that range from the classic orange with white stripes to the dramatic black with white stripes.
If your favourite character in Finding Nemo is Dory, or you preferred the second film to the first, you might want to take on the challenge of creating a Finding Dory aquarium. This would mean bringing the beautiful and characterful Blue Tang into your large 600L saltwater aquarium and populating it with plenty of live rock for the hungry tang to feed from.
Blue Tang fish, like Dory, represent a challenge to fishkeepers of all skill levels. They’re moderately difficult to care for and require a very large saltwater habitat to allow them to indulge in their active ‘just keep swimming’ ways. If you’re determined to care for your own Finding Dory aquarium, we would also recommend you keep them alone as these typically aggressive fish are likely to fight with other tang species.
Something else to consider when creating a Finding Dory fish tank is that Blue tangs such as Dory are more likely to suffer from white spot, ‘ich’ disease, than other fish. This shouldn’t deter you from welcoming the beautiful blue tang to your own aquarium however, simply read our helpful Guide to Treating White Spot to familiarise yourself with the symptoms and treatments available.
Issues of fish compatibility, such as bullying and fighting can be alleviated through a number of techniques which are listed below. Please keep in mind that every fish, even when they exhibit behaviour characteristic of their species, is unique and may act unexpectedly. Because of this, you should always pay close attention to how your fish community coexists, particularly when they’re first introduced to one another.
Unfortunately, if you’re struggling to keep your fish happy in their tank after trying the methods above, it may be time to take more drastic measures and remove the aggressive fish from the tank. Doing this should lessen the stress levels of peaceful fish, which should always remain a top priority for fishkeepers as a stressed fish can quickly become ill and is more susceptible to diseases.
When it comes to crafting a real life Finding Nemo fish tank, choosing members of the Tank Gang is only one half of the picture, you’ll also need to ensure all the practical environmental factors are taken care of. This can be very pricey and keeping on top of maintenance tasks for a marine tank will take up a lot of time, but if you’re dedicated enough it’s definitely achievable. To help you get started, we’ve included a quick shopping list below that includes all the essentials you’ll need for your new marine tank.
If you’re new to saltwater fishkeeping, or just need a refresher course before taking on this new project, you can also visit our ‘How to Set up a Marine Aquarium’ blog post which details all the necessary equipment and steps you’ll need to get going.
While building your Finding Nemo tank, you might notice that, while you have some of the famous members of the Tank Gang, your completed tank doesn’t quite look the same as the original. This is because the dentist in the film made the mistake of using plastic plants and ornaments as well as fake, coloured substrates to decorate his own tank. These fish-killing mistakes would mean that his tank occupants wouldn’t last very long in real life, and nor would the decorations as the salt water would discolour the plants quickly.
Unfortunately, because the ornaments used in the original tank are so iconic, creating a perfect replica that can support a healthy environment for your marine fish simply isn’t possible. Because of this, we would recommend choosing what is more important for you; having the Tank Gang or having the Finding nemo fish tank ornaments. If you decide on the former, abandon this section and prioritise creating a healthy environment for your fish. On the other hand, if you’re happy with an easy to care for freshwater aquarium that looks like the original tank without any of the Tank Gang, you can do so by browsing the wide range of plastic plants, aquarium decorations and substrates to help you build a realistic replica of the Tank Gang’s home.
To get started on building your own replica (but freshwater) tank, take a look through our popular Finding Nemo fish tank ornaments below, including the artificial long-stemmed plants, the scuba diver helmet and the ‘Aquascan’ water tester. If you’re feeling particularly creative and inventive, you could even try to recreate the iconic bubble treasure chest or ‘ring of fire’ volcano, using air diffusers and bubble wands from our collection of aquarium air stones and diffusers.
Recreate the long-stemmed green plants from the original Finding Nemo aquarium with the pack of two tall plastic plants from BiOrb. Available in short, medium and tall heights to suit any sized fish tank, the BiOrb Easy Plants will effortlessly create a lush green environment for your fish.
One of the most practical Finding Nemo fish tank ornaments available at Aquacadabra, this Ocean Rock not only helps to create a realistic looking replica tank, but also provides useful hiding spaces for smaller fish. This type of rock can also be placed in freshwater or marine aquariums, making it a suitable choice for the Tank Gang or their freshwater cousins.
Another practical inclusion to have in your Finding Nemo fish tank, the Seneye USB Home V2 is a fun nod to the ‘Aquascan’ from the original film which also offers a convenient alternative to regular manual water testing. Most fish react poorly to changes in water temperature and pH, so monitoring these along with other water parameters is the best way to ensure the continued happiness of your fishy friends.
Among the more iconic Finding Nemo fish tank ornaments, the scuba diver helmet from Aqua One mimics the helmet Nemo finds himself hiding in when he first wakes up surrounded by the Tank Gang. Unlike the clunky, metal version seen in the film however, the scuba helmet from Aqua One is made from a fish-friendly resin and is hand painted for pops of green, red and yellow.
Whatever Finding Nemo aquarium you create, whether you opt for a marine aquarium with some members of the original Tank Gang or prefer to build an easier freshwater tank that resembles the original design, remember you can always contact the friendly experts here at Aquacadabra for specialist guidance and use our handy advice blogs such as ‘How many fish should you put in a fish tank?’ whenever you need.
]]>If you’ve kept freshwater fish for many years, making the leap to a marine system can often be quite daunting. Saltwater aquariums are, admittedly, more difficult and more expensive to keep than their freshwater cousins, especially when you consider the additional equipment, the expense associated with the livestock and the demanding water quality maintenance, but they can also be very rewarding. Fortunately, if you’re looking to make the leap into the world of marine fishkeeping, then we can provide you with a detailed step-by-step saltwater setup guide and full equipment list to get you started on your new hobby.
As you may expect, the most important piece of equipment you’ll need to build a marine fish tank is a fish tank. What size you’ll need will depend on how many fish you’re planning on keeping and their specific water volume requirements, but in order to give you a complete guide to saltwater tank setup for beginners, we’ll assume the starting point is a standard Juwel Vision 180 Marine Aquarium, which includes an integrated filter, heater and a state-of-the-art Multilux LED lighting system.
If you opt for a different aquarium, either by brand or by size, simply make the necessary adjustments to the items listed below (for example, you may need a more powerful pump and additional bag of substrate for a larger aquarium).
On top of this essential marine set up equipment, you can also choose to have the follow optional extras:
With all of your equipment accounted for, it’s time to set up your brand new saltwater aquarium. This is a long process that will take a few weeks when done properly, particularly when you consider the time it takes to mature the tank and ensure the conditions are suitable for adding livestock, so patience is key. Before you start, we advise reading through the full step-by-step marine tank set up guide so you’re familiar with the full process before you start.
Most of the equipment can be added to the Juwel Vision 180 Marine Aquarium at this first stage, before adding any water. This is a long step as it includes information about setting up the lighting system, protein skimmer and filter, so we’ve split it up to make it a little easier to follow.
Start with the lighting system, which should be unplugged from the mains, and check that your two fluorescent bulbs are correctly installed. When you purchase the Juwel Vision 180 Marine Aquarium, two marine-suitable bulbs are included, but if you’ve chosen a different aquarium make sure you have one blue bulb and one white. While these can be inserted in either position, we recommend placing the blue bulb at the front of the aquarium with the white closer to the back as this will help to bring out the colours of your fish, as well as any inverts you plan to have.
It is important to use a mixture of blue and white bulbs if you’re looking to house corals, as this helps to replicate the natural light conditions in tropical areas, taking into consideration the depth of the water where the corals will naturally live. Don’t forget that the great majority of corals depend upon photosynthesis to prosper, and that over time fluorescent tubes will fade. With this in mind you should replace them every 6 – 12 months to ensure you’re providing the optimum lighting conditions for your livestock. It is also worth noting that two fluorescent bulbs should be seen as the minimum used. If you can increase the number of tubes in the hood, or are able to fit LED lights in addition to the standard Juwel lighting, this will allow you to keep more sensitive and light dependent inverts within the aquarium.
Now that the lighting has been updated, the Tunze Doc Skimmer 9004 can be added to the aquarium. This type of protein skimmer is highly recommended for all Juwel Aquariums as it is easy to install and helps to lighten the load of cleaning maintenance. However, if you’re using a different aquarium, then we would recommend buying a protein skimmer from the same manufacturer, which you can find in our skimmer collection online.
Now that you have your lighting and your protein skimmer in place you can ensure that your aquarium heater and Juwel filter are ready for operation. With purchase of the Juwel Vision 180 Marine Aquarium, the inbuilt filter comes readily fitted with five high-performance filter media that are suitable for a marine aquarium set up, all of which can be replaced when needed.
The final thing to do in this stage of the saltwater aquarium setup is to add the substrate, which will typically be live sand or crushed coral sand. How much substrate you need will depend on the size of your aquarium, but if you’re using the Juwel Vision 180, one bag will suffice. Assuming you’re using coral sand, simply rinse well before adding to the aquarium, but if you’re using a ‘live’ substrate, then don’t add this until the end of Step 2.
With the majority of the equipment in place, it's time to add your water. Ideally, if you have access to RO water, use this to ensure you’re not adding any pollutants on day one. If not, and you have no nitrate or phosphate readings when testing your tap water, it’s time to fill the aquarium.
A good tip to remember when filling your marine aquarium is to keep the water level a few centimetres below the max fill level, this is because when you add the salt the water level will increase. Once filled, add a dose of dechlorinator (unless you’re using RO water) and then switch on your heater and Juwel Filter (but not the protein skimmer) which will start to warm and circulate the aquarium’s water. Doing this will also help to trap the sediment from the coral sand, which will inevitably be clouding the fish tank.
It’s now time to mix your first batch of seawater, which fortunately isn’t that difficult! Over time, you’ll get the hang of this, but even experts don’t get it right the first time round. You’ll also need to make sure that you get the right type of salt for your marine aquarium, as our recommendations differ depending on whether you’re setting up a coral tank or fish only tank. For coral and fish tanks, for example, we would recommend marine salts such as Red Sea Coral Pro, Aquarium Systems Reef Crystals Salt or TMC Reef Pro Salt. For a fish-only aquarium, Red Sea Marine Salt, Instant Ocean Marine Salt or Tropic Marin Marine Salt are preferable alternatives.
As a guide, 25kg of salt will mix approximately 600lts of saltwater. So for a 180lt aquarium, you’ll need approximately 7.5kgs of salt. In order to achieve the correct salinity without any water or salt wastage, try to add less salt than is needed before gradually adding more. Once you’ve added what you think is the correct quantity of salt, allow it to mix for several hours, while allowing the Juwel filter pump and heater to do their work. Something extra to note is that the salinity of seawater changes with temperature, so keep this in mind when mixing salt. Always mix it in water that is heated to the same temperature as your aquarium.
After waiting a few hours (we’d recommend overnight), it’s time to test the salinity of your water (assuming the tank is up to temperature). To do this you’ll need a refractometer, such as the D-D Solutions Refractometer. This piece of equipment is easy to use and exceptionally accurate, helping you reach your target salinity of around 1.025 quickly.
If you find the water mixed is below this level, just add more salt. If you’re over, add more freshwater – until you reach the correct level. Don’t forget it may take an hour or so for the salt to be absorbed into the water, so this process of small adjustments can take a while.
A necessary step for those using live rock in their aquariums, maturing the system ensures that the beneficial bacteria that lives within the live rock doesn’t suffer any additional damage. Adding live rock to a sterile aquarium that hasn’t been matured means exposing it to high Ammonia and Nitrite levels, and maturing the system prior to adding this helps to minimise any spikes.
Evolution Aqua Pure Reef Balance is a great product for this with clear instruction for the process. In overview, you add the specified dosage of Pure Reef Balance into the aquarium each day, and monitor the levels of ammonia and nitrite. You’ll notice that after a few days the ammonia level will increase, before it then starts to fall again. The reason this fall is that beneficial bacteria are consuming the ammonia. This drop will also cause the nitrite to increase as the bacteria that consumes the ammonia produces nitrite as a by-product. The next colony of beneficial bacteria that arrives will consume the nitrite. Again, you’ll know when they’ve arrived as the nitrite level will subside. You should only add your live rock once both ammonia and nitrite levels are zero, which may take a few weeks.
Now that the fish tank has matured, it’s time to add the live rock. This will generally arrive in plastic bags, but not immersed in water. Take the rock pieces out of the bags and inspect them thoroughly, keeping an eye out for small crabs. If you spot any, don’t add them to the aquarium – they will be a nightmare to get rid of and will likely cause havoc. Once you’re confident you have no unwanted hitchhikers, add the rock to the system, removing water as required to stop the aquarium from overflowing.
When aquascaping, you may notice that the rock pieces have algae on one side but not the other. Try to ensure that any surface that has anything living on it is positioned to face the aquarium’s lights as this will help to encourage growth. This is one of the great things with live rock, you’ll have a fantastic eco system with all sorts of creatures in no time at all.
With your aquascaping in place, this is also the time to add in any additional circulating pumps you may want. The Juwel Vision 180 Marine Aquarium already has a quiet yet powerful Eccoflow 600 circulation pump installed, but many fishkeepers prefer to add some additional power. If you fall into this category try adding an AI Nero 5 Wireless Submersible Wave Pump as this will provide fantastic circulation within the aquarium, minimising the likelihood of dead spots while also keeping fish entertained.
At this point in the marine tank setup process, you should have the aquarium largely ready to go with the water matures, live rock in place and the circulation pumps generating plenty of current. From here, there’s only a few things left before you’re ready to add your new marine friends, including turning on the protein skimmer.
Protein skimmers are undoubtedly a great invention and no marine tank should be without one. Efficient models should remove 90% of the organic waste from a marine aquarium, helping to manage the waste produced by any livestock as well as removing any pollutants associated with the introduction of the live rock. Even this miraculous invention shouldn’t be used as an alternative to proper maintenance, and you should continue to monitor your ammonia and nitrite levels. After a week, if you’ve had no increases, it’s time to think about introducing livestock.
It’s also time to switch on the lights if you haven’t already. Ideally, your lighting should be switched on for 8 to 10 hours per day and, just as importantly, it needs to be switched on for the same 8 to 10 hours each day. With this in mind, we recommend you use an electric timer to switch the lights on and off at the same time each day. You can also set this so that the aquarium’s lights are switched on while you’re around to view it, such as in the evening after work or during the day if you work from home.
If you’ve kept tropical fish in the past, you will already be accustomed to the acclimatisation process associated with introducing livestock to a new aquarium and, with marine fish and inverts, there’s only one added element to take into consideration: the salinity.
When introducing livestock into your new marine aquarium, including coral, shrimps and fish, we recommend the following process:
This process may take several hours, patience is however well rewarded. It’s especially important that you do not expose your livestock to sudden changes in salinity, particularly inverts such as shrimps and corals, as these are very sensitive to these changes.
Note: In step 4 we mention that you should never pour the water from the transportation bag into your aquarium, and there's a very good reason for this. If you’re adding a new marine fish that has been housed in a fish only system at the aquatic retailer, you can’t be sure that they haven’t added any medications into the system that are copper based. Copper is toxic to all inverts. As such the last thing you ever want to do is mix water from an aquarium shop’s marine system that may be medicated into your invert tank! It’s always best to err on the side of caution so don’t add any water from your local fish shop’s system, stick to your own.
At Aquacadabra, we have everything you need to set up a brand new marine fish tank and, with friendly experts on hand to provide guidance and advice, you can confidently approach your new hobby without fear. To get started, browse through the products linked in the marine tank equipment list at the beginning of this guide or, if you’re looking for a space-defining aquarium or more manageable micro-tank, take a look through our collection of state-of-the-art aquariums to find an alternative to the Juwel Vision 180.
]]>In this blog, we’ll be introducing you to white spot fish disease, going over the causes and symptoms of the illness and providing advice on the best treatment for white spot and how to administer it. So, if you’re concerned that your fishy friends might be suffering from white spot disease, discover how to beat it back and return your tank to full health below.
Also known as ‘ich’ disease, which takes its name from the Ichthyophthirius parasite that causes the aquatic illness, white spot is one of the most commonly occuring fish illnesses in freshwater fish. An inconvenience for fishkeepers, and a trial of discomfort for fish, ich disease is by no means the worst illness to befall a fish tank - but it should always be treated swiftly in order to minimise the damage.
It's important to remember when dealing with an influx of ich disease that, while it is a common fish illness and can be treated relatively easily, the suffering caused by any level of infection can be severe - a nightmare for any dedicated fishkeeper. Additionally, white spot disease is potentially fatal if left untreated, so acting quickly to save the lives of your fish is crucial.
As we’ve already mentioned, white spot disease is known to be caused by the external ‘Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis’ parasite, however it’s not quite as simple as that. This parasite is actually naturally occurring in freshwater aquariums, and the natural immune system of the fish should be enough to prevent any widespread or severe outbreaks. It is only when the fish’s natural immune system is weakened that they become susceptible to a white spot outbreak, which can be caused by a number of factors.
The most common cause of white spot disease taking hold of a tank is through heightened stress levels of the tank inhabitants. Fish, like humans, have a lowered immune system when undergoing stress, so you should always be on the lookout for potential stress triggers in your aquarium, such as poor water quality or the introduction of a new fish into an established aquarium.
If given the opportunity to latch onto and feed upon your fish, the Ich parasite will undoubtedly do so. This is when visible symptoms of the disease will begin to appear. Identifying these symptoms, diagnosing your fish correctly and treating them accordingly with white spot fish treatment is the best way to stamp down on the illness as soon as it occurs.
If you’re worried that your aquarium might be suffering from an outbreak of ich disease, the easiest way to determine this is by looking for symptoms of white spot. To help you diagnose your fish, we’ve put together an easy list of all the symptoms of white spot in fish below, including the most common white spots on fish as well as some more hard-to-spot symptoms.
White spots on fish: The appearance of white spots on fish is the easiest identifier that your fish are suffering from ich disease. These spots, which resemble small white specks of sand, can appear anywhere on your fish including their tail, body and fins. Sometimes, these specks can be clustered together in patches and can even appear around and inside the fish’s gills.
Scratching and fish flashing: White spot fish disease can be incredibly irritating and itchy for fish so it’s not uncommon to see infected fish using objects in the tank to try and scratch themselves.
Scale damage: A side effect of the scratching, seeing scale damage and general bruising is a cause for concern as these tears can leave your fish open to further infection and illness.
Lethargy and clamped fins: Signs of an advanced case of ich fish disease, a lessening in activity and extreme lethargy is a side effect of increased stress levels and poor health.
Yes, while ich disease is potentially fatal, if caught early and treated effectively, your fish are capable of making a full recovery. This will take some effort on your part, as the treatment requires multiple doses and careful treatment (which we’ll get into next) but it's vital that, when those white spots first begin to appear, you act immediately. There is still hope, and you don’t need to give up on your fishy friends.
Fortunately, once your aquarium inhabitants have made a full recovery, there are plenty of steps you can take to ensure your fish stay fighting fit. Not only will this boost their general mood, but it will also reduce their risk of infection from a wide range of fish illnesses, including ich disease. Take a look at some preventative measures you can start taking below:
As with any illness, early diagnosis and treatment is key to stopping white spot fish disease from wreaking havoc on your aquarium. Fortunately, as white spot is one of the most commonly suffered diseases among fish, we have developed fast and effective methods of treatment to limit the damage.
White spot fish treatment has been developed carefully to target the Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis parasite at the weakest stages of its lifecycle. This is during the two ‘swimming’ phases of the parasite life cycle, the first of which occurs when it is looking for a host to latch onto and the second occurs after the mature parasite has finished feeding on the fish and bursts from the skin. It is during these stages that the parasite is most vulnerable to fish ich treatment, so medicating at these points is important.
To ensure you medicate at the right time, follow our simple step-by-step instructions on how to treat white spot below:
Once the course of fish ich treatment is complete, we recommend leaving your fish to rest and recover in peace. This means no re-decorating, no excessive cleaning and no new fish. It's also important to keep a lookout for signs of ich fish disease returning, such as a return of symptoms. Once you know you and your fishy friends are in the clear, you can restart your regular caring activities, making sure to follow our advice to ensure a happy, stress-free environment for your fish.
If you think your freshwater aquarium is suffering from an outbreak of ich fish disease, don’t panic. Seeing your fish in such a distressed state can be upsetting, but treatment is inexpensive and effective and, as long as you act quickly, it doesn’t have to be a disaster.
Browse the collection of white spot fish treatments available online at Aquacadabra and follow the simple steps above to swifty eradicate infection from your fish tank. If you have any questions or are worried about medicating your fish yourself, contact our friendly experts here at Aquacadabra. We have plenty of expertise dealing with fish diseases such as ich disease, and are always on hand to share our knowledge with fellow fishkeepers.
]]>If you’re looking to take your fishkeeping hobby to the next level, today could be your lucky day!
Here at Aquacadabra, we’re giving away one of the Fluval Roma 125 BT LED Aquarium and Cabinet, worth over £380!
Available in a sleek modern design with a choice of four different colours, the lucky winner will be able to choose between oak, walnut, black and white to suit their room. A stunning showpiece for your home, we think you’ll agree.
At Aquacadabra, we’re one of the original specialist online aquatic retailers with one of the largest selections of aquariums, filtration equipment and aquatic accessories in the UK.
Entering couldn’t be more simple, fill in your details below by 1st October 2021 for your chance to win. Plus we’re giving bonus entries every time you share the competition on social media to increase your chances of winning.
Good luck!
Competition Terms & Conditions
Available to UK entrants only. Over 18s only. Prize includes Fluval Roma 125 BT LED Aquarium and Cabinet. Prize colour chosen by the winner. No cash alternative available. Competition closes midday 1st October 2021. Winner will be announced on Aquacadabra social media channels.
]]>If you’re suffering from a blanketweed problem and are wondering how best to kill and remove the pesky problem, you’re in luck. In this blog, we’ll be going over how to get rid of algae, what the best blanketweed treatment is and sharing our top tips on how to keep it away once and for all.
In small amounts, string algae doesn’t pose much of a problem for the health of your pond. In fact, if growth is kept to a minimum, blanketweed can actually be a good thing! A natural absorber of excess organic matter, blanketweed can help to clear up your water but, once it grows and spreads, issues are likely to set in. In ponds where there is enough algae growth, the oxygen levels of the pond will begin to change which can be harmful to the health of your fish. After this, severe cases of blanketweed can even pose a physical threat to your pond life, with the long, spider web-like strings capable of trapping some fish breeds.
The first step in removing blanketweed from a pond is to manually lift the algae from the surface of the pond. In places where it's tangled up in plants and pond decorations, try to carefully cut the blanketweed until it lifts free. Keep in mind that some pond wildlife may get caught up in the spiderweb algae, so it may be worth setting the removed blanketweed next to your pond for a day or two. This short pause should give any accidentally displaced critters time to return to your pond, helping to maintain the ecosystem you’ve built in your pond through the removal process.
Once the bulk of your blanketweed infestation has been removed and cleared away, you’ll also want to spend some time clearing up any remnants of the algae. Clearing away small free-floating pieces will help stop the algae from growing again and will also help prevent the little pieces getting caught up in your pond filter and clogging it up.
Time consuming and strenuous, the process of manually removing blanketweed is certainly a chore you’ll only want to do once, so make sure you follow our maintenance steps (which we’ll cover soon) to ensure the algae can’t grow this much again.
Once you’ve removed the blanketweed by hand, the next step is to treat it with an algae remover. There are a few different types of pond algae remover to choose from, with the cheapest choice being barley straw. As a natural algaecide, barley straw sits on the surface of the pond where any blanketweed is naturally attracted to it. Over time, this natural algae treatment slowly releases hydrogen peroxide into your pond, killing the blanketweed. Unfortunately, the downside of using barley straw for ponds as a natural algae treatment is that it can take a long time to work, usually needing to be left for anywhere between a few weeks to a few months.
If you’d prefer to avoid the long time frame of using barley straw for ponds to solve your string algae problem, then there are still plenty of safe and effective choices available. Your main two choices are a bacterial algae remover, which starves blanketweed by clearing up any excess nutrients in your pond, or a chemical algae treatment, which is a mineral and enzyme mix that directly targets the blanketweed’s growth by changing the chemistry of the water.
Both types of blanketweed treatment have proven to be extremely effective and are the easiest and fastest way to control the growth of algae in your pond. At Aquacadabra, we have a wide range of algae remover treatments that fit into these categories. To find the right one for you, follow our easy guide below.
Algae treatment for fish and wildlife ponds: If you care for a wildlife pond, then your top priority is creating a safe and healthy environment for frogs, bugs and fish to thrive. Because of this, we recommend choosing a pond algae remover that poses no threat to their health such as Cloverleaf’s Blanket Answer. A natural pond algae remover that is 100% safe for fish, plants and other pond life, Cloverleaf’s blanketweed treatment doesn’t harm the bacteria cultures in filters, allowing you to keep your pond filters working while the treatment does it’s work.
String algae treatment for ornamental ponds: In ponds without fish or wildlife present, we recommend using the highly rated Evolution Aqua Stop Blanketweed treatment. An incredibly powerful chemical string algae treatment, Stop Blanketweed should kill any pesky algae in your pond on the first treatment. Available in multiple sizes at Aquacadabra, including the largest Evolution Aqua Stop Blanketweed 4kg, this effective algae remover will keep your pond blanketweed free.
The best way to keep blanketweed at bay once you’ve gotten rid of it is to understand exactly what causes the persistent algae in the first place. Typically, blanketweed is carried to ponds through plant life but, as blanketweed is native to this country, its spores can easily reach your garden pond regardless of the number of pond plants you have. Because of this, there’s really no way to stop blanketweed at its source. Instead, your best course of action is to target and continually manage the elements that cause blanketweed to grow. By creating a pond that is naturally hostile to the algae, you’re less likely to have to remove another infestation later down the line.
Removing blanketweed from your pond is a three-step process, starting with manual removal, then using a pond algae remover and finally maintaining a pond environment that is hostile to any further algae growth.
Ready to tackle the blanketweed in your pond? Browse through the blanketweed treatment collection at Aquacadabra to find everything you need to stop string algae from spoiling your pond.
]]>Just like with every other animal, aquatic or otherwise, fish need to eat. Having a healthy, varied diet helps all types of fish develop and grow while also improving their general health and happiness. The type of fish food required differs from fish to fish too, so don't think If you’ve already put in the effort to create a healthy tank or pond environment that it will be enough to sustain the life of your aquatic friends - they need the right type of fish food.
Not quite as simple as popping down to the local pet shop and grabbing the first pot of fish food you see, there are lots of different types of fish food available and, in order to ensure your little friends are benefiting from a healthy fish diet, you’ll need to select the right one for you. To help you narrow down your options, we’ve compiled a list of three questions that will guide you to the best food for your fish.
Due to the different dietary needs of pond fish and aquarium fish, it’s important to ensure that you’re buying the correct fish food according to where your aquatic friends live. At most retailers, you’ll find that pond fish food in its varying forms is cheaper than aquarium fish food and many fall into the trap of choosing it as a way to save money.
For the most part, pond fish food is cheaper as it is more likely to be bought in bulk, but some of the price difference is down to the ingredients. Aquarium fish food is more expensive to produce as it usually has higher protein and fat content, while pond fish food is designed to suit the different needs of pond dwellers.
Overall, your best course of action is to trust that the higher price is worth the investment and buy the correct type of fish food for your fish. At Aquacadabra, we have dedicated pond fish food and aquarium fish food to help you find the right kind.
It’s important to choose the type of fish food you buy according to the feeding habits of your fish. Species such as loaches and catfish are common bottom feeders and require a different type of fish food to mid and top feeders such as tetra and guppies.
Fish food flakes, which is probably the most popular or best known type of fish food, is best for mid-to-surface feeding fish as they can get to the food before it dissolves into the water. For bottom feeders, a fish food that sinks, such as fish food pellets, are a better option. When buying fish pellets however, it’s important to pay attention to certain features such as the rate at which they sink as some are made to drop quickly to the bottom for bottom dwellers to feast on while others have a higher buoyancy in order to better serve mid-feeding fish.
When it comes to feeding pond dwellers, the type of feeders you have is not a concern. All pond food, such as pond pellets and pond sticks will float on the surface, softening as it absorbs the water, while your fish swim to the surface to eat.
Just like other animals, fish can often be picky eaters, refusing to eat if something isn’t to their taste. For the most part, this problem can be solved by introducing a more varied diet with a mixture of different types of fish food. While it’s good to have standard dried food such as fish pellets or flakes, adding things like frozen fish food to the mix and even some occasional fish treats is a great way to peak the interest of your fussy eaters.
Beyond just being a good way to convince your fish to eat, frozen fish food is also a great source of nutrition as the proteins and minerals are preserved more successfully through freezing than drying. Be aware, however, that if left uneaten, frozen fish food can cause the water in your tank to foul, so make sure you feed your fish the right amount so there aren’t any leftovers.
With the right fish food in place, the next step in creating a healthy diet for your fishy friends is to make sure you’re feeding them the right amount at the right times. It can be difficult to keep on top of a schedule, especially if you’re usually busy or forgetful, so we recommend using an automatic fish feeder. Not simply for use with an aquarium, an automatic fish feeder such as the Fishmate P21 Automatic Pond Feeder can be used to feed your pond fish at regular intervals - all you need to do is ensure it remains stocked with food! Of course, an automatic fish feeder solution is only appropriate for use with dried fish food, as frozen fish food should only be given while frozen or freshly defrosted.
For fishkeepers that never miss a feeding and enjoy watching their pond and aquarium fish enjoy their food, an automatic fish feeder isn’t a necessity. However, for holidays and weekend breaks, it can often be difficult to find someone to fulfil regular fish feeding duties. For these occasions, using holiday fish food or weekend fish food is recommended. Available in a range of forms including gel, blocks and sticks, holiday fish food is designed to deliver the nutrition your fish need over a longer period of time, ensuring they’re as healthy and happy when you return as they were when you left.
As you might expect, the amount of food you should feed your fish is dependent on the species you have. Small sharks and pond koi require significantly more food than small tropical fish, so when buying your fish it's a good idea to ask your seller how much food they recommend. On average however, most aquarium fish require between one and two feedings a day, and should only be given the amount of food they can consume within five minutes. If there are fish food pellets or flakes left uneaten after this time, remove them if possible and lower the serving amount for the next feeding.
For pond fish, the recommended feeding frequency is higher at one to three feedings a day, though only during feeding months. If you’re worried you may be at risk of overfeeding or aren't sure how much to give, wait while they eat for around five minutes then remove the excess food from the surface. This will stop the leftover pond sticks and pellets from dissolving into the water and damaging its quality.
At Aquacadabra, we have everything from healthy frozen fish food to all-purpose pond pellets from top selling fish food brands like Tetra and Vitalis, allowing you the freedom to choose the best food for your fish. Our customer service team are also well-versed in the needs of a wide variety of fish so, if you aren’t sure what food to start your fish on, just get in touch and we’ll be happy to share our expertise.
]]>In this blog, we’re going to be sharing with you all the things that make Fluval one of the best brands on the market for high quality and high tech aquariums. With advice on which Fluval aquarium will suit your needs, answers to commonly asked questions about Fluval and even our top product suggestions, read on to discover all you need to know about Fluval.
Leaders in fishkeeping innovation, Fluval have been ahead of the curve for decades now, creating sleek, intelligently designed aquariums, filters and fishkeeping accessories that constantly set the new standard across the fishkeeping industry. Their tanks are designed to give the best experience possible to beginners and hobbyists alike and, thanks to their powerful technology with an easy interface, this goal is consistently achieved. With aquariums sold in a range of sizes and styles, there’s a Fluval aquarium for all types of fishkeepers.
As with many fish keeping brands, Fluval have expertise in a range of products and, unless you know exactly what you’re looking for, it can be difficult to choose the right fish tank, filter or aquarium accessory. Guide your searches and find the Fluval aquarium to suit your specific fish keeping needs by asking yourself the following questions:
Unsurprising considering their technological expertise, Fluval filters are designed to exceed the highest of standards. Take the Fluval Flex as an example. A collection of aquariums that range between 34L and 123L, each Fluval Flex fish tank is fitted with a powerful 3-stage filtration system that can competently handle the volume of water in your tank, maintaining a safe environment for your aquatic life. Similarly, the larger aquariums in Fluval’s range come with one of the Fluval U Range of internal filters or the latest Fluval -07 External Filter, both of which are cleverly hidden either within the tank itself or through a connecting hose within the stylish cabinet.
If you already have an aquarium you’re happy with and are more interested in the quality of individual Fluval filters, prepare to be similarly impressed. Having been branded as the ‘salvation of the aquarium’, we’re happy to report that the Fluval FX6 Canister Filter lives up to its impressive reputation. Fitted with advanced motor technology, the Fluval FX6 is energy efficient, incredibly quiet and is powerful enough to keep a 1,500L tank clean and healthy. While this large capacity filter doesn’t fit Fluval’s own tanks and are better suited for filtering much larger tanks such as those produced by Red Sea and Evolution Aqua, the filter itself goes a long way to displaying the pure technological might of Fluval’s engineers. For more information on this large aquarium filter, watch Fluval’s video below.
Please note: the above video is produced by Fluval and is taken from their YouTube channel.
If what you’re looking for is a stylish aquarium that has been fitted with clever design features that make monitoring, caring for and looking at your aquatic life easier and more enjoyable, then you will likely agree with us that yes, Fluval is a reputable brand. All the bases are covered with a Fluval fish tank, and their large range of Fluval filters, circulation pumps and other fishkeeping accessories are second to none.
At Aquacadabra, we are incredibly proud to provide our customers with the best Fluval fish tanks. Browse through our Fluval Flex, Fluval Spec, Fluval Shaker collections among others and find the right tank for you online at Aquacadabra.
]]>Our shop in Optima Park is still open, but stock is currently being moved over to the new location - so if you're coming down to the shop with something in mind, please call ahead and we can check if we have it in stock for you!
We don't have a date yet for opening the new shop, but please keep an eye on our homepage or our Facebook for the latest updates.
Please be assured though that throughout the moving process, our delivery process won't be interrupted and you can still order with FREE delivery as normal!
]]>As enjoyable to design as it is to carefully maintain and grow over the years, an above-ground pond is the perfect addition to gardens both big and small and comes with a large variety of customisation options that will really make you feel as though it's your own personal fishy heaven.
In this post, we’ll be taking you through all the benefits of having an above-ground pond in your garden, sharing our easy-to-follow guide on how to install one and answering some frequently asked questions about raised garden ponds, to help you decide whether or not this is the right way to indulge in your fishkeeping hobby.
There are many benefits associated with keeping an above-ground pond, which range from purely decorative reasons all the way to accessing the specific health benefits of tending to your own fish pond so, if you’re still wondering whether or not installing a raised pond in your own garden is worth it, take a look at just some of these reasons below:
As is the case with any form of fishkeeping, all of the incredible benefits of keeping an above-ground pond need to be worth the price you’re paying and, with everything from construction to maintenance needing to be considered, you’ll want to make sure your budget can cover everything before you jump in.
For most people, investing in a raised pond kit is the easiest and most cost-effective way to get everything you need for constructing your own above-ground pond, with prices ranging between £100 - £600 depending on the size and shape you’re looking for. If you’re particularly skilled at DIY, however, and are looking for a challenge, building your own pond frame and purchasing additional pond supplies may be a good way of saving some money.
If your preference is constructing your own above-ground pond, you’ll likely need the following pond construction tools and equipment:
A lot of other equipment would be needed, for example a solid frame and the tools & know-how to construct it all. If you aren’t confident relying on your DIY skills to craft your own raised garden pond, we recommend sticking to an above-ground pond kit. While an above-ground kit may be more expensive on the surface, these reliable kits limit the risk of constructional issues and having to replace damaged equipment and any fish you may have lost in the process.
If you’ve chosen to invest in one of the above-ground pond kits available at Aquacadabra, rest assured constructing your own raised garden pond will be a simple and fast process. If you’re looking at purchasing one of our Blagdon above-ground pond kits this especially rings true, as each kit comes complete with detailed step-by-step instructions to talk you through the process - leaving you with only two tasks to complete before beginning construction.
Excited to get going on your new fishkeeping project? At Aquacadabra, we have a wide selection of fully equipped raised pond kits to choose from or, if you’re more intrigued by the DIY route, our collection of easy to install pressurised filters and additional pond equipment contains trusted products from some of the leading brands in fishkeeping.
Once your beautiful above-ground pond is up and running, you’ll also want to know how to look after it. Seek the advice of our highly experienced staff at Aquacadabra by contacting us or go directly to our ‘A guide to keeping your pond healthy’ blog for step-by-step advice on helping your new pond thrive all year round.
]]>To help your pond thrive and to ensure you can make the most of all the benefits associated with keeping a pond, such as getting closer to nature and engaging in a therapeutic hobby, we’ve put together a guide that’ll offer up pond keeping advice, take you through the process of caring for your pond, as well as answering some of our most frequently asked questions.
The most important piece of equipment you’ll need in order to maintain the health of your pond is a filter, the basic function of which is to keep the water in your pond circulating, ensuring that it is clean and properly oxygenated in order to support your livestock. Beyond this vital function, however, specially designed pond filters can also be bought that can further boost the functionality and health of your pond. When setting up a new pond and filter, we recommend adding some filter boosting bacteria to kick-start your filter system.
UV water clarifiers - Different from your standard pond filter, some come with an additional UVC unit. Filters with a UV Clarifier are designed with a UV chamber which, as your pond water passes through it, causes the algae commonly found in ponds that are too small to be caught by standard filters to clump together. This algae, which is responsible for the greenish colour of many ponds, can then be broken down by filters and collected in a lower chamber where it is easily removed. Ultimately, this type of UV pond filter won’t upset the biological balance of your pond and will remove the unwanted green pigment in the water, leaving you with a beautifully clear pond to enjoy.
Inline UV Clarifiers are also available to be used in conjunction with a mechanical/biological filter, so you can upgrade your filter system to include a UVC without needing to replace your existing filter.
Pond fountain pumps - Decorative pond pumps are a great and easy way to turn your pond into an eye-catching water feature. Introduce some design flair to your pond with our collections of pond fountain pumps. More than simply being an excellent option for creating a unique and beautiful pond, the surface disruption from a fountain can also increase the oxygenation levels of your pond, ultimately contributing to both the healthiness of your pond water and fish. Some fountain pumps also have an outlet to connect to your pond filter and also create a waterfall for the water to flow back into your pond.
Also consider our In-Pond Filters, many of which come with a fountain nozzle (or even a range to choose from) - a real all-in-one solution for pond water filtration with a beautiful fountain!
Air pumps - Keeping your pond water oxygenated is very important for your fish health: lack of oxygen is a common cause for fish death, especially overnight when pond plants switch from producing oxygen to using it up as part of their cycle. Air pumps direct fresh air to the bottom of your pond to be released through porous air stones to create bubbles which float to the surface, oxygenating and aerating your pond.
Pond heaters / Ice vents - Speaking of keeping your pond oxygenated, pond heaters are a great way to prevent your pond from fully freezing over in the winter. They do not heat the whole pond like an aquarium heater would, but they prevent a small area of the surface from freezing over, allowing oxygenation so your fish can still breathe.
Debris such as stray leaves and dirt will naturally fall into your pond from time to time and, if allowed to sink to the bottom, will begin to decay. The decomposition of natural debris will risk upsetting the ecological balance of your pond, both through the release of harmful gases and through its settling at the bottom in the form of sludge, so it’s important that you minimise the effects of debris by clearing your pond regularly.
There are two main ways to do this, the first being through manual debris removal with a net. Nets, such as the Hozelock Pond Nets, are an inexpensive way to remove debris from the surface of your pond, but a less time consuming method can be found in an automatic pond skimmer. An excellent investment for those that don’t have the time to perform manual maintenance every day - or even more often than that during Autumn when falling debris is a constant problem - a pond skimmer is designed to automatically pull surface debris into a collection basket which can be emptied at your convenience.
With everything set up, and your necessary equipment installed and working well, your next task is to ensure the health and happiness of your pond, fish and plant life by creating a testing routine. A regular testing routine will allow pond keepers to track any changes in water quality and tackle them as soon as they occur. Maintaining this routine will allow you to identify water quality problems early and treat them before they become life-threatening to your livestock.
When it comes to creating your own pond testing routine, there are two main options to consider, the first of which is to purchase a manual pond test kit. Depending on the brand you choose, these kits contain all the equipment you need to measure vital parameters of your water including pH, ammonia, nitrite and phosphate. This method is more time consuming than more technologically advanced methods that have become more popular in recent years, but manual testing does bring its own benefits. Firstly, manually testing your pond with a pond test kit can be a relaxing process which provides you with the opportunity to get closer to your fish and understand more about what they require to thrive. Secondly, manual pond testing kits, such as the popular NT Labs Pond Lab 200 Multi Test Kit and the API Pond Master Test Kit are significantly cheaper than their automatic test alternatives.
For those that don’t have the time to manually test their pond on a regular basis, the second option may be a more useful, if slightly more expensive, alternative. Automatic pond testing devices fundamentally have the same role as manual testing, but are more accurate, considerably easier to use and, depending again on the specific monitor you choose, can keep a 24-hour watch on the water quality of your pond. These devices are also bluetooth compatible, allowing you to monitor your pond with ease from your phone through a corresponding app. Additionally, while many may balk at the price of automatic pond monitoring equipment, such as the Seneye Pond Pack Kit, they represent a clever investment purchase for those who’ve already spent a lot of money on stocking their pond with expensive fish and plant life.
Looking to improve the health of your current pond or doing research before starting one? At Aquacadabra, we stock a wide range of pond filters, pumps, test kits and more, all from leading brands including Seyene, Hozelock and Bermuda, so we are confident we can offer the very best in pond keeping equipment to amateurs and pond enthusiasts alike.
]]>In order to successfully keep a healthy and stable underwater ecosystem, you’ll need to follow a few rules, all of which we’ll be taking you through in this post so that you can work out the safest number of fish you can keep in your aquarium, whatever its size.
Over the years, there have been many rules to help fishkeepers work out how many fish their aquarium can support, with the simplest being the classic ‘one inch of fish per gallon of water’ rule. While this familiar rule is widely known, it is a very crude method of measuring that has been heavily oversimplified for convenience.
One of the primary problems with this system is that it allows only for two variables, these being the length of the fish and the amount of water in the tank, when there are significantly more considerations to be made. If you’re seeking a hard and fast rule for how many fish you can keep, there isn’t one but, by using this method as a rough estimate, and by considering the other variables at play, you’ll be able to work out how many fish to keep in your tank.
For now, however, take the following numbers as your yardstick, then utilise the variables described in the next section to adjust as needed.
Every aquarium is different so, while all of these variables should be thought about before stocking your tank with fish, you may find that many of them don’t apply to you. To find out how many fish we would recommend you keep in your tank, simply identify the variables from our following list that are relevant to your individual fishkeeping needs.
While we know that one of the only variables the one inch per gallon rule considers is the volume of water a tank can hold, there is more to this calculation than simply reading the information that came with your aquarium. More often than not, the amount of water that your tank will hold is inaccurate, as it doesn’t take into account additional factors such as the space needed for gravel, decorations and plants. Fortunately, figuring out the net volume of your tank is a straightforward calculation.
Firstly, you’ll need to know the full capacity of your tank. Generally, this information will be available when you first buy the tank but the mathematical equation is incredibly straightforward, so don’t worry if you’ve forgotten. All you will need to figure this out is the height, width, length and shape of your tank which, with our handy fish tank volume calculator, will be able to tell you roughly how much water your tank can hold in litres or gallons.
With this figure, you can then work out your tank’s net volume. Generally, it's safest to assume that the net gallons/litres your tank can hold is around 85-90% of its full capacity. Mathematically, you should follow this equation:
For example, if your tank measures 30x30x30cm, which makes your maximum water volume 27L, your net water capacity will be 22.95L.
The other variable the classic ‘one inch’ rule considers is the length of the fish but, unsurprisingly, this figure is also subject to inaccuracies; the most obvious being that fish are not all the same width and height. Goldfish for example, a particular favourite of fishkeepers, are a full-bodied fish species that will take up more space than other, thinner species. Furthermore, another commonly forgotten variable to consider is the adult size of the fish - especially if you plan to purchase juvenile fish - as one inch of length can quickly change.
When choosing which fish to stock your tank with, we would recommend you follow a more conservative estimate of one inch per two gallons for full-bodied fish and remember to take the estimated fully-grown length, to ensure a healthy aquarium balance that will last for years.
While the size of your preferred fish is certainly important, a good fishkeeper should also consider other factors to ensure their aquarium does not feel overcrowded, such as the species of fish. Some species do not live happily together while others, such as schooling fish, will need to be kept in groups. If your fish are unhappy in their environment, their increased stress levels may risk lessening their lifespans - which is why we recommend fishkeepers take additional time to look into species compatibility, before purchasing any fish.
Your choices of species will also have an effect on how many fish you can safely keep in your aquarium, the number increasing when you find a good balance between top swimmers and bottom dwellers so they don’t get too cramped in their preferred area, for example. Similarly, you’ll want to consider whether your fish are particularly active as more swimming space will mean less fish can be kept.
Now that we’ve covered the main variables, there are some other things you should keep in mind while working out how many fish you can keep. These are unlikely to have as big an effect on your calculations as water volume and fish species, but the more you know, the safer your fish will be.
When it comes to fishkeeping, hard and fast rules usually backfire so the best advice available is to be cautious and consider as many elements as you can. Fishkeeping is a learning process, so starting small and working up within safe margins is an excellent way to ensure the happiness of your aquarium.
Find all the equipment you need to keep a successful fish tank, such as a well-sized aquarium with a large surface area and a strong filtration system, online at Aquacadabra.
]]>As always we are still offering Free Delivery on all items, and our staff are working hard to get all your orders out on time. We remain committed to supporting you with all your fishkeeping needs at this difficult time.
Please be assured that our livestock will be checked and fed daily and will continue to be well cared-for.
]]>In this post, we explain the most common causes of cloudy water in fish tanks, and run through some simple solutions to help you get your aquarium looking spick and span once again.
Cloudy water is one of the most common complaints among new aquarium owners. Whilst it’s natural to worry about harm coming to your fish, cloudy water will not impact the health of your tank’s inhabitants.
Often, water in a brand new aquarium will be crystal clear for the first few days, then suddenly turn ‘milky’, leading the owner to believe something has gone wrong. This is totally normal.
A brand new tank contains little to no bacteria. Once you begin to add life forms, a number of microscopic organisms all try to establish themselves. These then begin to multiply as they feed on the minerals and nutrients in the water, which is what causes the cloudiness. The problem can be exacerbated by adding too many fish at once or overfeeding, as you are providing the microbes additional food sources. This is often referred to as a bacterial bloom, and will usually clear up on its own within a few days.
Adding new gravel to a fish tank can create residue and tiny, dust-like specks which cause the water to become cloudy after just a few hours. Gravel residue creates a white or greyish coloured water. Ensure you wash new gravel thoroughly and rinse well before depositing into your tank.
Another cause of cloudy water in a new fish tank is dissolved constituents. This means that a high level of heavy metals, phosphates or silicates have dissolved into the tank water. Water conditioners, such as Tetra AquaSafe, can be used to treat this issue and get your aquarium water looking crystal clear once again.
There is generally only one cause of green water in a fish tank: algae. While algae is a natural part of owning an aquarium, it can look rather unsightly, and if allowed to grow out of control can become harmful to fish. But how does it form in the first place, and what can we do about it?
Too much light allows algae to grow. It’s therefore advisable to place your fish tank away from direct sunlight. You should also be careful not to leave the lights on for too long. Taking these precautions should stop algae growth in future.
Any uneaten fish food which is left to rot in the tank leads to excess phosphates in the water, and phosphates fuel algae growth. Not only is overfeeding bad for the health of your fish, but food left uneaten can wreak havoc within their environment, too.
While phosphates can be caused by decaying matter, they can also occur naturally in tap water. We recommend testing tap water using one of our water quality test kits before letting it enter your fish tank - this way you can see the condition of your water before it’s too late. If you find that your tap water contains a high level of phosphate, you can either use a phosphate remover to treat it or use RO water instead.
Fish waste is an unavoidable part of keeping a fish tank. Nitrates are a byproduct of this waste, and naturally rise over time. If you’ve never had a problem with green fish tank water in the past, then this might be the cause. The only solutions are to clean your tank on a regular basis and keep the filter clean.
Whilst the solution to a cloudy water problem often depends on the specific cause, there are a few things aquarium owners can do to help prevent fish tank water becoming cloudy in the first place.
Too much food floating around your tank will begin to decay, which leads to the growth of algae, turning tank water green. Make sure you know how much food your fish need to avoid overfeeding.
This may seem obvious, but ensuring the tank is cleaned regularly will help to keep on top of cloudy water. Most tanks should be cleaned once every two weeks, but the number of fish you have can determine exactly how often your aquarium will need to be cleaned. When cleaning, you should siphon any debris and leftover food from the gravel which will help to prevent the growth of algae.
More fish means more debris. Fish like clean water, and it’s much harder to maintain a clean tank with too many fish, which leads to cloudy water through the growth of algae and other bacteria. Make sure you check the specifications of your tank or get in touch with a member of our team if you’re unsure how many fish you can keep inside it.
You may be tempted to change the water completely when it turns cloudy, but this will only make the problem worse as you are introducing new bacteria to the mix. Performing partial water changes monthly, in which you replace approx 25% of the water in the tank, is enough to keep your aquarium fresh and clean. However - if you are experiencing cloudiness due to the tank being new, you should refrain from water changes altogether until things settle naturally.
If you have access to another healthy fish tank, you can seed your own aquarium by adding handfuls of gravel from the already well-established tank to your own. This will seed the good bacteria that your new tank needs and will help to speed up the clearing of that cloudy, white water.
Adding activated carbon media to your aquarium’s filter is a simple solution that will help to absorb those nutrients that fuel bacteria growth in your tank, thus helping to reduce the chances of water turning cloudy. At Aquacadabra we stock a wide range of aquarium filter media to fit filters of various types and sizes.
Another great solution to many types of cloudy water is using a treatment such as Seachem Clarity, which is safe for fresh and marine water, and helps flocculate (clump together) particles causing cloudy water so that they can be caught in your filter, thereby clearing your aquarium water!
Whether you’re looking for a bigger fish tank, water treatments or filter media, we have all of the tools and equipment you need to keep your aquarium looking great, and most importantly, your fish happy and healthy.
For more tips and tricks on keeping fish, take a look at our blog, where you’ll find plenty of helpful guides, such as how to choose the right aquarium for you and how to clean your fish tank in eight simple steps.
]]>At Aquacadabra, we have decades of collective experience when it comes to fishkeeping and everything fish-related, so whether you’re an amateur hobbyist or you’re a complete fishkeeping novice, we can point you in the right direction to finding the perfect gift for your loved one.
In order to make searching for the perfect gift as straightforward as possible, we’ve compiled our ultimate guide to buying gifts for fish lovers. Whether your loved ones are brand new to the hobby, have been doing it for a while or are bonafide fishkeeping experts, our guide showcases some of our favourite gift suggestions perfect for all types of enthusiasts.
After almost a full year of people learning to adjust to spending the majority of their time indoors, it's unsurprising that the hobby of fishkeeping has been on the rise. An excellent way to bring a little nature into your home, keeping and caring for an aquarium is a great stress-relieving hobby that everyone can enjoy.
For the people in your life that you believe would happily welcome a little nature into their lockdown lives, we suggest diving right in with our collection of small fish tanks for beginners. These aquariums are low-cost, low-maintenance and provide the perfect introduction to the hobby!
Resembling the traditional fish bowl with a contemporary, minimalistic twist, the Fish R Fun Deco Miniature Aquarium is the ideal gift for budding fish lovers. Small and sleek, this tank fits easily onto any surface and, with its advanced HPLED lighting system simulating sun-like ripples throughout the water, this aquarium quickly becomes an eye-catching, interactive decoration for any room.
Keeping fish should be a fun, relaxing experience, especially for beginners, and this tank delivers on those promises. Available to purchase online as a complete system with inbuilt LED lighting, gravel and a stone stacking ornament, this small fish tank is incredibly easy to set up and is ready to be enjoyed almost immediately.
While the Deco aquarium boasts a contemporary, modern aesthetic, the Marina iGlo 360 Aquarium Kit is perfect for those that want to bring a little extra colour and fun to their fishkeeping experience. With vivid plants and galaxy gravel, both of which turn fluorescent underneath the remotely controlled max glow LED lighting, this aquarium benefits from unobstructed 360° viewing so you can enjoy your bright underwater world from every angle. When it comes to maintaining the cleanliness of your aquarium, the Marina iGlo also has a removable cover and an easy access filter with quick-change media cartridges, making cleaning quick and hassle-free.
At the hobbyist stage your fish-loving friend will be learning all of the basics of keeping their aquarium happy, healthy and enjoying the meditative, calming experience of caring for their fish, plants and coral life. When it comes to finding gifts for experienced fish owners, we recommend presents that will improve their overall experience of fishkeeping and, whether you’d like to add to their underwater ornament collection, contribute to their fish tank accessories or find something entirely unique, we have everything you need to surprise them.
Part of the joy of keeping fish, especially for creative types, is the underwater world building aspect. You’ll know if your loved one is interested in this side of aquarium building by the size of their ornament collection, and adding to that collection of exciting underwater decorations is a great way to show them you care.
At Aquacadabra, we have an extensive range of underwater decorations for you to choose from, so if you have a rough idea of the type of decorations your loved one prefers, feel free to browse through our collection unaided.
If you’re still looking for gift inspiration and need a push in the right direction, we love this Ruined Bronze Helmet by Aqua One. This ornament has a rustic, ancient aesthetic, perfect for creating a mysterious, deep sea feeling in any aquarium and, with Aqua One’s guarantee that their products are non-toxic, long-lasting and require minimal maintenance, it is easily enjoyed by both the owner and the tank’s inhabitants.
Fish lovers pour heaps of effort into keeping their fish, plants and corals in the best condition possible and this D-D Deepsee Magnified Aquarium Viewer lets them enjoy the results of their hard work in better detail than ever before.
Ideal for diving into aquarium photography, or for inspecting aquarium life for early signs of illness, this 4” magnifier is easy to install and use. Suitable for glass and acrylic tanks of up to 16mm thickness, this is an exciting gift for any proud fishkeeper.
Now that we’ve been over the best gifts for budding and accomplished fish enthusiasts, it’s time to tackle gift inspiration for the fish fanatics in your life. Experts in their field, fish fanatics take meticulous care of their fish and likely already have their aquarium set up exactly how they like it. Because of this, the best kind of gift to buy a fishkeeping expert isn’t one that adds to their aquarium, but one that helps maintain it. Below are two of our top selections for gifts that will help keep any pre-established aquarium safe and happy, as well as helping to check if a new tank is ready for fish (or other inhabitants) to be introduced.
There are many factors that must be monitored regularly to ensure an aquarium provides the optimum living environment for fish, plants and corals and one of the most vital factors is water quality. If the water in an aquarium is maintained within the correct parameters, it can thrive. However, if not properly treated, water with poor chemistry can often leave fish feeling stressed, which ultimately lowers their immune system and leaves fish vulnerable to infections and other ailments. Similarly, plant life can also be compromised if the water quality favours algae growth.
With the NT Labs Pond Lab 200 Multi Test Kit, you are able to perform almost 200 tests to monitor the 6 key parameters of water quality; Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, GH and KH. With the calibrated dropper bottles and the simple pictorial instructions, these tests are easy to perform and will help fish fanatics keep their tanks in perfect condition. While this test kit is specifically designed for pond water types, NT Labs also have kits for freshwater, marine and marine reef aquariums, so, whatever type of tank your friend has, you’ll be able to tailor this gift specifically to them.
While the NT Labs test kit is an excellent tool that can improve your loved ones' understanding of their tank and what they need in terms of water quality, it can quickly become very time consuming. For the busy fish fanatics if your life, it's worth splashing out on the Seneye USB Home V2.
Suitable for use with freshwater aquariums, the Seneye home V2 is the perfect tool for monitoring all life-critical factors, including ammonia, pH balance, temperature, light and water level, to ensure the water of your aquarium remains within safe parameters at all times. This tech-savvy piece of equipment is capable of remote monitoring and will alert your loved ones of any immediate breach of water parameters with flashing lights on the monitor, or through a pre-selected email or SMS text message, and will provide clear advice on how best to correct the problem.
For those friends that don’t have a freshwater aquarium but could still benefit from monitoring their tank, we also recommend the Seneye Pond Pack Kit for pond keepers and the Seneye Reef Pack for marine tanks.
Buying gifts for fish lovers may first appear daunting, especially if you have no experience with the hobby yourself, but it doesn’t need to be! By following our advice, we're sure you’ll amaze and surprise the fish lover in your life. If you’re still feeling slightly worried about how your gift will be received, or if you’d simply rather they have the opportunity to choose for themselves, take a look at our Aquacadabra Gift Cards.
If your loved one has fallen hook, line and sinker for their fishkeeping hobby you’ll find the perfect gift for them online at Aquacadabra!